Rover Sports Register Forum

Just repainted the dash centre section on the P3. Someone had done it long ago so the lettering has long been lost (so had the chrome edge) I was going to make up some water slide transfers on the pc for the lettering for the switches but was wondering has any one done this before if so what is the...

Hello,
Please see my post on Kleenoil bypass filters. Sorry the pictures have expired - but I can email some to you if you like.
David M.

Just to say how much members like myself who have drawn on Tony's interest and knowledge over the years will miss him. He and Joan supported the RSR in so many ways, not least by their participation in club events and in tours organised by Ian Glass. Not to mention the Workshop Manual, so carefully ...

OK - ideally I'd like one with the date April 1936. I already have one dated Sept 1935 and there are some differences, for example in Figs 7 and 10.
David Moseley

Calling all Rover10 owners, Ernie Mould of Fishburn, Co. Durham is the Riley specialist I mentioned last year and he has the pressing equipment to make channels in steel sheet, specifically for boot floors. He could set up the tooling to produce boot floors for the Rover 10 (which is different from ...

I have four of these which have never been painted and are dark brown, perhaps plated, with no rust.

Has anyone got a decent 1936 10/12hp instruction manual they would swap for a 1935 version?

Kleenoil supplied the hoses and T-piece to my specification - as I said Paul Kitching went out of his way to be helpful. The only problem I experienced was that the restrictor in the T-piece was initially below the take-off point for the oil gauge, which made the gauge read rather low. When I drille...

A recommendation from David Moseley When rebuilding my 1936 12hp tourer (completed in 2001) I fitted an AC bypass oil filter, but I removed it after 2000 miles as I could not source a replacement. However, the micro-filtration properties of this type of filter are attractive and this year I searche...

The original flexible jump hoses were put together in the following way. An olive was secured about 5/16" from the end of the appropriate 5/32" (4mm) pipe, with a brass ferrule in place behind it. The pipe with its olive was then inserted into the end of the rubber hose and the ferrule was slid over...