1934 Rover 12

Like a good wine, vintage Rovers need appreciating
digcot65
Posts: 360
Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2020 1:34 pm

Re: 1934 Rover 12

Post by digcot65 » Wed Jun 17, 2020 12:22 pm

Hello for more photos of the car,it is still advertised on Cars and Classics REF 1087794 I will post more photo as I progress with the restoration .Len

TonyG
Posts: 288
Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 4:38 pm

Re: 1934 Rover 12

Post by TonyG » Wed Jun 17, 2020 1:00 pm

Hi, the marks are FA4 and FA6. You need to set the timing to FA4. When aligned to the pointer and with the distributor in the advanced position, the points should just be opening. FA6 is used on six cylinder cars, which share the same flywheel.

All this and other invaluable information is well laid out in the workshop manual that is available from the club. It also worth getting the associated parts book as this shows greater detail of how the car fits together and the bits you are puzzling through.

Looking at your pics I see you have an electric fuel pump. A few observations; 1/ the redundant mechanical pump is still fitted. This is driven from the camshaft via a short push rod. If you remove the pump and fit a plate in it’s place, as I have done with both my cars, remember to remove the push rod or it will be rattling around. 2/ a filter has been put in between the pump and carb. Probably more useful to insert this in the feed from the tank to the pump as most dirt will be coming that way and it will save you cleaning the small gauze filter in the pump so often. 3/ to help reduce the chance of fuel vaporisation, I rerouted the fuel pipe to the near side of my cars and mounted the SU pump on the near side of the bulkhead. I also had metal braided hoses made to go from pump to carb, keeping them above the engine. So far I have had no vaporisation issues.

I also see that the Luvax auto lube has been removed and the fuel pump mounted in it’s place. The Luvax system always draws polarised views and I can see the advantage of it if you were intending to reinstate it on your car if, indeed, it was fitted on your model? Personally, I prefer to grease all the joints on my cars and have had no problems doing so but it is a matter of choice.

Finally, I used POR15 engine paint in Buick green from Frost on both my cars and found it to be superb. Also their black paint for chassis parts etc is probably the best and most durable protective enamel I’ve ever used. It’s made in USA and probably contains the sort of ingredients that Hammerite had long ago. Be careful not to get it on your skin as it will be there until it wears off! Similarly, put cling film over the paint tin before the lid goes back on or it will stick shut forever. Not cheap, but the best never is!

Good luck and more pics of the progress please. I am starting back with my 37 Saloon now that lockdown is eased and will try to upload some pics too. It has the same engine as yours.

Tony.
Tony Gilbert

P1 12 Tourer
P2 12 6 Light Saloon
Discovery 3
Discovery Sport

digcot65
Posts: 360
Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2020 1:34 pm

Re: 1934 Rover 12

Post by digcot65 » Thu Jun 18, 2020 3:31 pm

Regards to the pin that works the mechanical fuel pump.I can`t remove the pin ,it feels as though it may have to be removed from inside the crank case It feels as though there is a shouled on it when I try to pull it out Len
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TonyG
Posts: 288
Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 4:38 pm

Re: 1934 Rover 12

Post by TonyG » Thu Jun 18, 2020 7:03 pm

Given that it runs against a camshaft lobe, that would suggest that the pump push rod can only be removed if the cam is out. I’ve never removed the camshafts on either of my cars and, in fact, not stripped down the ‘37 engine at all. However, I’ve taken both rods out so either yours is just stuck or it is of a different design to mine, which seems unlikely. Maybe try some WD40 and moving it about to see if it frees up. Perhaps the constant movement through the crankcase has worn a lip on the inside of the rod? Maybe turn it 180* and try to pull it out then?

Tony.
Tony Gilbert

P1 12 Tourer
P2 12 6 Light Saloon
Discovery 3
Discovery Sport

digcot65
Posts: 360
Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2020 1:34 pm

Re: 1934 Rover 12

Post by digcot65 » Sat Jun 20, 2020 11:12 am

Morning,I`ve tried everything to remove the rod ,that actuated the fuel pump but no way will it come out .I`ve tried turning it through every degree there is I am wondering,if the inner end has been peened over with wear over all the years .It seems as though I may have to cut the last few mm off,to stop it fouling on the blanking pate I`m going to fix Sent the steering gear to ICS Steering Birmingham, its some place they have there very modern and very busy which hopefully is a good sign.I`ll let you know the result.While I`m waiting next job is to cleans the SU carb.Photo as it is now 86 years of grime.It was worrying to read about present petrol being phased out and the cost to classic car owners could be very expensive,to run on the future E10 fuel .There is always something they have to mess with.If petrol is due to be phased out any way ,why spend a fortune altering it now.
As if I haven`t enough to do ,the electric garage door mechanism has just failed and can`t be repaired .Just when I need it the most,another job on my list to do ,sort a new door opener Len
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digcot65
Posts: 360
Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2020 1:34 pm

Re: 1934 Rover 12

Post by digcot65 » Sat Jun 20, 2020 11:57 am

On the SU carb .there is the choke throttle and n=another lever for acceleration whats this

digcot65
Posts: 360
Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2020 1:34 pm

Re: 1934 Rover 12

Post by digcot65 » Sat Jun 20, 2020 12:26 pm

Started to strip carb.to clean and I noticed there is no damper on it .Usually as you unscrew the plastic top ,there is a plunger damper attached.Nothing on mine also what is the long brass lever for Len
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TonyG
Posts: 288
Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 4:38 pm

Re: 1934 Rover 12

Post by TonyG » Sat Jun 20, 2020 6:59 pm

Len, the long brass lever on the carb is the ‘Throttle’. You will see it operates on the butterfly controlled by the accelerator. On the dash board you should, or would have had, a throttle next to the ‘Mixture’ or choke control. Having both enables cold starting and increasing engine revs. Since rebuilding my Tourer four years ago I’ve only had the mixture control but this wasn’t really satisfactory and I’ve recently put a throttle in, which makes cold driving much easier.

The carbs on these cars are downdraft SUs, which are quite unusual. As such the piston is horizontal so a dashpot and plunger to damp the movement would not work very well. Don’t worry, nothing is missing. Burlen fuel services can supply a kit for refurbishing the carb which includes all the seals, float valve, a new butterfly and jet. However, if you want a new needle, you need to remove it from the piston by undoing the screw that holds it in and looking at the number on the flat side of it. As you may know, SU carbs of a given type all have the same jets but the needles and springs are the bits that vary performance.

I’ve got a spare engine that I will try to get to in the shed and see how the fuel pump rod comes out.

Tony.
Tony Gilbert

P1 12 Tourer
P2 12 6 Light Saloon
Discovery 3
Discovery Sport

TonyG
Posts: 288
Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 4:38 pm

Re: 1934 Rover 12

Post by TonyG » Sat Jun 20, 2020 7:39 pm

Len, just looked at spare engine and taken sump off to see how pump is driven. As I previously said, it is a short push rod running directly on the cam. There is nothing holding the rod in place so it should pull out. Maybe some more penetrating oil and spend a while turning it round while trying to pull it out? It will be hardened steel so cutting it will be hard. Good luck.

I’ve found that the modern petrol with ethanol doesn’t have a long shelf life and goes off in the tank. As such, best not to leave the tank full when the car isn’t in regular use as it will either require draining or new petrol mixing with it for the car to run ok. The best fuel for classics is Esso Super unleaded which has a max of 5% ethanol. However, the Esso website says that outlets across UK except the West Country have no ethanol added at present. Ethanol can attack some alloy parts, seals and rubber piping we are told so best to renew all pipes and, I would hope, new seals from Burlen will withstand the modern fuel additives.

Our cars were designed and built before leaded fuel was widely available in UK. GM developed it in USA late 1920s to get smoother running and improved performance but it wasn’t really available here until the outbreak of war when leaded fuel was required for aero engines. With that in mind, lead replacement additive probably isn’t required but that is a matter of choice.

Tony.
Tony Gilbert

P1 12 Tourer
P2 12 6 Light Saloon
Discovery 3
Discovery Sport

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