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Rover 12 painted

Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2020 8:40 am
by digcot65
Finally finished spraying the car,I`ll leave it for a while before flatting with 2000 wet and dry and then polish it with G3 Farecla.The longer left the better,giving the paint longer to harden The "TENT" I built in the garage has been a godsend,there was still a small amount of dust settling,but no where near as it was without the TENT.While its hardening,I can get on with the engine and fit the steering when it returns.What is the bestoil for the steering box Len

Re: Rover 12 painted

Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2020 7:50 pm
by blackhallr
hi,can i ask what paint and code for the maroon you used as i am about to repaint my 1947 p2 12

Re: Rover 12 painted

Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2020 1:49 pm
by digcot65
Hello I under coated the car then applied a base coat of maroon and then coated with 2 pack lacquer.Unfortunately there isnt a code for maroon now .There used to be a maroon pigment,but that no longer exists hence you dont see new maroon cars,unless they are pearl or one with the metalic bits in There is a local paint supplier to the trade and all he does,is to supply standard paint or mix to order ,Ive been going to him for years. He made some up for me ,but I found it too light so he added whatever colour was needed and that`s the colour you see,which I`m pleased with.Its about £40 a litre,but you would have to order plenty to spray the car,since it isnt standard every tin has to be mixed until the buyer is happy .Where about are you I don`t use cellulose any more,since ethanol additives were added to petrlolit damages the paint if petrol is spilt on it when refuelling.Len

Re: Rover 12 painted

Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2020 1:50 pm
by digcot65
Forgot to add I think the maroon is a bit darker than the photo shows which I like.

Re: Rover 12 painted

Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2020 4:01 pm
by digcot65
This is a photo of the "TENT" I said I built in the garage it has been a boon,if I go into the garage which can be quite cold,and I`ve had the heater on in the TENT, the temperature can easily be 65,then I have to turn it off,which I do before spraying anyway I also wet the floor well.It doesnt stop dust completely but it reduces it greatly, it so the body just needs 2000 wet and dry,before buffing . Shame to scrap the TENT when Ive finished but I can use a few of the battens .Len

Re: Rover 12 painted

Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2020 4:03 pm
by digcot65
This is a photo of the "TENT" I said I built in the garage it has been a boon,if I go into the garage which can be quite cold,and I`ve had the heater on in the TENT, the temperature can easily be 65,then I have to turn it off,which I do before spraying anyway I also wet the floor well.It doesnt stop dust completely but it reduces it greatly, it so the body just needs 2000 wet and dry,before buffing . Shame to scrap the TENT when Ive finished but I can use a few of the battens .Len

Re: Rover 12 painted

Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 11:49 am
by digcot65
Re the maroon paint I used I can give the code my paint supplier used if that`s any help,but as I said maroon isn`t` a standard colour,so if you have any mixed make sure its enough,as the second mix may not match Len

Re: Rover 12 painted

Posted: Wed Dec 02, 2020 3:31 pm
by digcot65
Forgot to add ,that the maroon cost £40 ltr made up which is then thinned with cellulose thinners, 60:40 and thinned more if needed .I needed more than I thought as the bodywork was quite bad`I`ts not till you spray the base coat on ,that many blemishes show up ,the undercoat tends not to show nay blemishes The base coat then has to be flatted and filled ,for this I use Finnesage filler which is in a toothpaste like tube its very fine and excellent

Re: Rover 12 painted

Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2020 9:37 am
by digcot65
Painted the LH side of the bonet,which I will leave as long as possible,before I flat it with 2000 wet &dry then polish it with a mop and polishing compound .Now pre-pairing the RH side ,which when it was down to bare metal was quite dented and rippled.I skimmed the whole of the top surface with 2 pack body filler,flatted as well as possible ,then skimmed all of it with Farecla a fine surface body filler .The next job is to sand it as smoth and flat os poss.then undercoat it and spray a light coat of black base coat.When this has completely dried I sand it own lightly with 800 wet and dry using a long sanding block.Then the surface will show small patches of black, which means these are low spots .I skim these over with farecla again more black spray and repeat the operation.Hopefully when lightly sanded the whole surface should just show thw undercoat with no small cavities.How many times you do this depends on how much patience and time you have.The bonnet can then be sprayed in black base coat and when dry sprayed in 2 pack lacquer.Left as long as poss.flatted with 2000 wet &dry and polished.This is why to do a whole car takes a few hundred hours .Happy polishing Len