Rover 10hp 1939, electrics.

[peter rimes]

I'm shortly to embark upon rewiring this car . The existing wiring looks pretty original but in tact , although the bullet connectors in some under bonnet positions appear perished. I prefer to re wire myself going back to 1st principles and route the cables within the car bodywork. Tidily under carpeting etc as distinct from chassis positioning. Has any member experienced problems with this work with regard to fusing (there does not appear to be much in the way of fuse protection)

Also is a battery isolator switch recommended. I would have liked to have positioned the battery in the engine compartment but alas insufficient space!
I intend to retain working semaphores as well as modern requirement contained within existing light units (not add on winkers- heaven forbid! )

And last but not least. What is the legal aspects of the Pass Light. ie, how should this be switched?

Any electricians advise will be most welcome. Thank you. Peter

[Rover Ron]

I fitted a battery isolation switch on the inner wing. I used a piece of steel angle, drilling holes on one side to match the wing securing bolts (slightly longer bolts were needed) and another hole to suit the switch on the second side. It means that I don't have to disconnect the battery (which is a carry on really) when I'm doing any electrical work.

[Chris C]

Hi Peter
I'm just in the process of installing a complete loom ( Autosparkes - £260 ) to my 1939 P2 / 14
I've got them to add extra wires for indicators, extra brake lights, power socket under dash.
It is advised that an inline fuse be rigged to the terminal of the battery, so that when any
new connections are switched on, if there is a problem, then the fuse will blow, not burn out
the wiring. Once everything is found to be OK, then the inline fuse can be removed.
Rgds, Chris C.

1939 - P2 / Rover 14 Saloon

[chris dancey]

Hello Peter,

If you go down the route of purchasing a new loom ( I bought mine from Autosparks...very good ) then consider having an extra foot of wire added to each length..just that little bit just in case.

When wiring the gauges switches etc behind the dashboard, solder in some bullet junctions about an inch or so from the gauge or switch...helps if one needs to service, ....some terminals are difficult to get at once installed.

If you want originality then some of the loom will run along the inside of the chassis, ie. outside the bodytub ....some was protected by metal conduit with ferruled ends, this is available from Fiennes Restorations, part of the loom has conduit in the centre of the loom which needs fitting when the loom is made as its impossible to fit afterwards.

I have installed also a supply wire ( white ) for an electric fuel pump under the back seat, indicators etc. that you mentioned.

Into the boot of the '38 coupe I have installed a ' 30s junction socket with a two pin plug, this is wired to the battery ( fused ) which I use to trickle charge the battery, saves taking out the rear seat and steel cover and has an ' original ' look. Easy to plug in after taking the car for a run..I have the same arrangement on the MGB.

I have also fitted a master switch to the wiper motor as the original type of wiper handle had a switch built in, these are liable to ' go live ' which will burn out the motor if the wipers are not in position..its happened to me.
Chris

[luli]

I also used the Autospark loom to re-wire my 1947 Rover 10, and found that it has several merits.
It looks good and original, it is very convenient to use, and it contains all the 32 different colour coded wires! The wiring diagram of the Rover is drawn in accordance with the loom and the correct position of every component and that makes the assembly quit simple. You can see an example here: http://wp.me/pXLKy-XG .
The weakest point of the Rover electrical system are the switches – especially those which carry high current: the ignition, lights, horn and wipers. I decided to support them with relays. Modern relays are very small and hardly noticeable but contribute a lot to the performance of the system. You can see the modified wiring diagrams here: http://wp.me/pXLKy-1xp.
Finally, the traficators are supported by flashers with a very simple modification, which allows the traficator to work and flash simultaneously http://wp.me/pXLKy-16w - see the movie inside.

[chris dancey]

Reference the Pass Light, on the '38 coupe this is wired as a seperate unit and acts as a fog / spot lamp and is independent of the main headlamps, all protected with solenoids and fuses. The pass light picks up the nearside road gutter and gives that little extra light if needed. I am not sure about the legality of a single lamp, somewhere I believe I have read that there must be two lamps of equal distant & height..I have never been aware that this has been enforced and may not be retrospective anyway for earlier models.

[peter rimes]

Hello again
Many thanks for the replies to my electrics questions. Very much appreciated . Following on from this I have ordered a loom from Autosparks with 5/6 weeks delivery!
This loom will be able to cope with flashing semaphore as well as front & rear indicators. I will look at additional fuse protection when I have the loom poised for fitting I think. I will get back to the Forum at this point.
Best regards to all involved. Peter