P2 14 HP ignition timing

Tangoman
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Joined: Sat Apr 28, 2012 7:39 pm
Location: Padiham, Lancashire

P2 14 HP ignition timing

Post by Tangoman » Tue Jun 03, 2014 10:27 am

My car is running fine but I just wanted to check that I have the ignition timing right. I have it set at 10 deg before TDC. Is this correct?
I initially set the timings using the method in the manual but the results were not good, it was to retarded. I've set the timings now using a strobe and marks I put on the flywheel.

GOY189
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Re: P2 14 HP ignition timing

Post by GOY189 » Wed Jun 18, 2014 2:40 pm

Sorry that this has taken so long, but the official picture is as follows. BTW the RSR's disclaimer applies.

VALVE AND IGNITION TIMING
Before attempting to time an engine, refer to “ Flywheel Markings “, after which the group concerned for subsequent operations should be ascertained and attention transferred to the corresponding section of the text.
Flywheel Markings, All Models
The flywheel markings and timing pointer are visible when the inspection cover on the right-hand side of the clutch housing is removed.
The mark T.D.C. indicates when No. 1 and No. 4 (or No. 6) pistons are at the top of their stroke.
The mark E.P. indicates when No. 1 exhaust valve is at the peak of its lift (i.e., fully open).
The letters F.A.4 or F.A.6 on Group 1 engines indicates the Firing Point, i.e., distributor points just breaking.

Retiming the Engine—1934-38 14-h.p. Model
The mark E.P. is 108° before T.D.C. (29 flywheel teeth).
(1) Set tappet clearance as given in Engine Data Table.
(2) Assemble timing chain and chain-wheels in any position, using one set-pin only.
(3) Adjust timing chain by slackening the dynamo bolts and pulling the dynamo away from the engine.
(4) Rotate engine in running direction until No 1 EXHAUST VALVE is fully open.
(5) Remove set-pins from the camshaft wheel and then rotate the engine until the E.P. mark lines up with the pointer.
(6) Two of the lines in the camshaft wheel should now correspond with three holes in the camshaft flange, if not, carefully remove the wheel and turn it one tooth forward or one tooth rearward, in one of these positions the bolts will register. Replace the bolts, recheck the timing and if satisfactory fit new locking-wire through bolt heads.

IGNITION TIMING
If the distributor has been removed for any reason it becomes necessary to retime as follows:
1934-38 10- and 12-h.p. Models
10 and 12 The F.A.4 mark is11 degrees before T.D.C. (3 flywheel teeth).
14 The F.A.6 mark is 16° before T.D.C. (4 flywheel teeth).
(1) Rotate the engine until the F.A.4 mark or FA6 mark on the flywheel is in line with the pointer in the clutch-housing aperture with both valves on No. 1 cylinder closed.
(2) The rotor arm of the distributor should now correspond with No. 1cylinder H.T. lead terminal.

(Should the engine have been stripped and reassembled the rotor may be up to 180 degrees away from the No. 1 cylinder position; in such cases remove the oil pump and rotate the pump and distributor driving shaft in the required direction until the correct position is obtained.
The oil pump is inside the sump, which should not, therefore, be fitted until the timing is definitely correct applies for 10 and 12 only)
1934—38 14-h.p. Models The procedure is the same as 10 and 12 models, except that the sump need not be removed in order to rotate the oil pump through 180°.

(3) Set the ignition lever on the steering-column in the FULLY ADVANCED position.
(4) Set the distributor points just opening; to do this, slacken the pinch-bolt on the ignition lever under the distributor head and rotate the head bodily the required amount and retighten the pinch- bolt. The correct gap for the points when fully opened is 0.012 in.

Best regards

Mike

jefflee
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Location: ROTHERHAM S. YORKS

Re: P2 14 HP ignition timing

Post by jefflee » Thu Jun 19, 2014 8:19 am

Hi Mike
If the ignition timing is 180' out lift off distributor cam and turn half turn.
cheers Jeff.
1937-20 SS _ 1938-20 SS _ 1946-16 SS _ 1947-16 saloon

Tangoman
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Apr 28, 2012 7:39 pm
Location: Padiham, Lancashire

Re: P2 14 HP ignition timing

Post by Tangoman » Tue Jul 15, 2014 3:18 pm

Thanks for the replies. I am struggling to find the pointer and the marks on the flywheel are difficult to see. But I will have another crack at it. I think it needs a little more advance.
As a footnote to this, after experimenting with different types and heat ranges of plugs I've found NGK BS6ES to be spot on. I've installed electronic ignition to alleviate the play in the distributor shaft and installed a high output coil.

digcot65
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Re: P2 14 HP ignition timing

Post by digcot65 » Mon Nov 22, 2021 9:05 am

Is the timing the same for a 1947 Rover 12 ,which is the car my friend own and Im looking at Len

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luli
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Re: P2 14 HP ignition timing

Post by luli » Mon Nov 22, 2021 2:13 pm

You can read the original Rover instructions here:
http://www.rover-forum.thersr.co.uk/vie ... da56#p8786
Rover 10 1946 RHD
Rover 10 1947 LHD
Rover 12 1947 tourer LHD
http://lulisml.wordpress.com/

digcot65
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Re: P2 14 HP ignition timing

Post by digcot65 » Sun Apr 24, 2022 9:07 am

Morning regarding my friends 1947 rover 12 is the small hole in the rocker arm,the only way oil is fed to the valve stems .My friend has had a couple of valves sticking in their guides I think the main problem is he has only done 339 miles in the last 12 years !!!! Len

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luli
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Re: P2 14 HP ignition timing

Post by luli » Sun Apr 24, 2022 10:36 am

The oil is fed to the hollow rocker shaft from the block via a banjo joint to the front of the head, left to the water pump. From the it goes up around the 3/8 BSF bolt securing the front shaft holder. Make sure that this path is open on one hand and that oil is not escaping because of too big space under the holder. There should be a copper gasket under it. The holes should be at 7 o'clock. Also make sure that both holes on a rocker are open, and that the shaft itself is not worn so that oil is escaping. Original shafts were made out of a soft steel and got worn very rapidly. Meteor spares have hard shafts and also new bushes for the rockers.
See also here:
https://lulis.org/2013/04/26/%d7%a9%d7% ... %d7%a8-10/
and
https://lulis.org/2014/04/03/%D7%A8%D7% ... A2-%D7%92/
Rover 10 1946 RHD
Rover 10 1947 LHD
Rover 12 1947 tourer LHD
http://lulisml.wordpress.com/

digcot65
Posts: 360
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Re: P2 14 HP ignition timing

Post by digcot65 » Mon Apr 25, 2022 7:13 am

Thanks for the reply ,when I first helped my friend we removed the head and I found one valve slightly bent ,this was where it had come into contact with the piston,no damage on this thanks goodness .I removed all the valves,which surprised me as some were tight in their guides After spending some hours working on the head it looked like new .All valves free and ground in ,I even tested the seals with fuel left in each chamber overnight and they were perfect .I gave him the head back to refit as I was having health problems and needed a break. Apparently when he started the engine he said it didnt run very smoothly and after a couple of minutes was really bad .Checking things out he has told me there is number one valve slightly bent I asked what the oil flow was like in the rockers area and he said it was fine,plenty of oil there .This sound more like the timing has slipped ,any help would be welcome.I have my own car which Im restoring,but with having cancer treatment Im not as agile as I was Len

digcot65
Posts: 360
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Re: P2 14 HP ignition timing

Post by digcot65 » Thu Apr 28, 2022 7:10 pm

Does anyone know how to set the three front gear wheels ,for the timing chain Normally there are indent marks to line all three up I have a feeling on my friends car,the timing has slipped

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