Rover Sports Register Forum

Hi All,
On 4 and 6cyl. engines up to 38ish water was fed directly to an alloy casting on the back of the cylinder head,
I know the water pump set up is different and it is not feeding low on the block but could this casting be used on
later 6cyl. models to get water to the back of the block and blank off the centre feed.
Jeff lee.

Made a decision! I've asked my engineer to narrow the four holes around the front two cylinders by 50% and open the four rear one by 1mm. With the new rad and thermostat and cleaned up water pump that should do the trick. Fingers crossed!

Way back in 1985 i had continuous ptoblems with overheating and water cascading past the top radiator cap on our 16 Export saloon, 4 blade fan, radiator cowl fitted as standard to Export models and still in position now.

At the time ambients in Belgium where we lived then, were not overly high. Only a radiator recore and reconditioned water-pump solved matters. Since their fitment in 1986 we have had no further worries, with over 70000 kilometres covered in the past 28 years.

I always use a Bluecol mix antifreeze, changing it every 3-5 years or so, at one time feeling was, perhaps still is, that pink-coloured more usually available antifreeze is a degrading problem for some of older cars alloy water castings.......

Howard Buchanan's point earlier in this thread about using long life water substitutes is a good one too. I use them in our MGC.

Good radiator and water pump are basic requirements for not having over heating issues. As much as I understand, the question was what if that is not enough. And as you point out, 4 blade fan and a cowl are a good answer, a reversible one – and a cost effective too.

TimMoore wrote:
I always use a Bluecol mix antifreeze, changing it every 3-5 years or so, at one time feeling was, perhaps still is, that pink-coloured more usually available antifreeze is a degrading problem for some of older cars alloy water castings.......

I agree with you there, Tim, and even engines as recently produced as the early '90s can be upset by the OAT anti-corrosion compounds in red (longlife) antifreezes. It is especially important in soft water areas to keep the anti-corrosion properties up-to-scratch; running on Highland spring water does not do any alloys a lot of good, as any Skye plumber will attest!

Anyone any experience of this stuff? http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk/

Hi Hll.
A few years ago I owned a 1949 Bentley Mk6 and found an excellent free website for Rolls and Bentleys.
The antifreeze problem was disgust at great length and should be read by all Rover owners.
A RR Silver Ghost owner sued for thousands because the antifreeze was not (universally compatible for all vehicles)
and within a few months rotted his seals and gaskets all over the engine.
Also a P4 rover owner won't have Bluecol on his premises because his favourite cat accidentally tasted it and died.
There answer is a product called Fernox Alphi -11 developed for central heating systems, as in the car it gets up near boiling and cool again daily.
It is a good inhibiter/antifreeze and excellent with all metals and gasket and rubbers etc. and non poisonous.
Its a clear liquid from any good plumbers merchants, I got mine from Screwfix £36/gall. but is left in the system for 5 years+.
Please check this great log in free website before deciding on antifreeze, I was impressed. its used on cars £100 000+
http://www.rrbew.co.uk
Regards Jeff. Lee.

I had similar issues with my P2 , the wrong stat was fitted (it should have an extension part Mike Couldry does them
) , & the radiator needed a rebuild , it was really heavy , full of silt
Regards
Revvin

Right. Over-heating cured. New rad, rebuilt pump and modified head have fixed that problem. Now there is another. The car ran all right for the first 15 miles or so (she hadn't been run for 8 months) but now she keeps dying on me. Usually as I try to pull away the engine revs just drop right off and sometimes the engine cuts out altogether. It will be all right for a few 100 yards then the next 100 will be stop/start. The valve seats have been replaced with hardened items and I've stuck 95 RON in the tank. All ideas welcome as I wanted to use the old girl on Sunday.

Maybe this thread will help: http://www.rover-forum.thersr.co.uk/vie ... pour#p8183