'37 P2 /12 rear hub

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revvin18
Posts: 7
Joined: Sun Mar 22, 2015 3:04 pm

'37 P2 /12 rear hub

Post by revvin18 » Mon Mar 23, 2015 4:59 pm

Hi , I am puzzled by my rear hub which I have in bits to change the oil seals ,
1/ how does the bearing come off the shaft do I need a special puller?
2/ there is lots of play in the bearing which I cannot take up on the castellated tube which acts on the bearing
maybe an inner spacer is missing ?
I have the axle which has a plain end (no nut) on the outside when you take the hub cap off , its shown on the "HH" page 7 2 oil seals per side

Thanks in anticipation
Kevin

Chris C
Posts: 106
Joined: Sat Mar 31, 2012 11:59 am
Location: Brackley, Northamptonshire. UK

Re: '37 P2 /12 rear hub

Post by Chris C » Mon Mar 23, 2015 10:50 pm

If you're talking about getting the hub bearing & housing off the outer end of the halfshaft, get a large block of wood
and hold the bearing housing (with bearing in it) and bump the inner end of the halfshaft on the block of wood.
Eventually the bearing will free itself off the shaft and move off its seat. As to the make up of the parts, not too
sure, have you tried looking in the Parts Book to see what is listed.
Chris Cartmell - DVLA Liaison Officer
Rover Sport Register

1939 - Rover 14 Saloon (P2)
1975 - Rover 2200 Saloon (P6)

GOY189
Posts: 557
Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 5:08 pm

Re: '37 P2 /12 rear hub

Post by GOY189 » Tue Mar 24, 2015 1:44 pm

Chris's tip actually works for removing the oil seal and carrier from 1938/9 on half shafts (and for the similar axles for 44 years up to the end of P5B production in 1973!)

Full details in the RSR P2 Workshop manual, but this may help.

UPSET PATTERN AXLE SHAFTS
MODELS. 10 and 12 h.p. 1937-47 (Commencing Car Nos. 701950 and 711950).
14 h.p. 1937-47 (Commencing Car No. 721201).
16 h.p. 1937-47.
20 h.p. 1937-40.
Note: On 1937 models the line of demarcation between old type “built-up” and new type “upset “ shafts can always be determined by the ABSENCE of a hub retaining nut on the “upset shaft,
Axle shafts of the “upset type have been adopted on all models listed above, They are made from one forging, i.e. in such a manner that the hub and shaft are integral and their chief advantage is increased strength over shafts of the normal “built-up ‘I pattern.
It is felt that some guidance is desirable for their repair, and as slight changes in design have taken place within the models covered by this Bulletin, the assemblies may be divided into two groups for this purpose.
A shaft of different pattern from the original (as governed by these two groups) may have been fitted, so that in all cases reference should first be made to Figs. 1 and 2 to determine which type is fitted, and then proceed with the operation according to the appropriate group.
GROUP I. All Models 1937-39 (Fig. 1).
A. TO ASSEMBLE.
The axle shaft, bearing housing and brake anchor plate are assembled first, and then the complete unit is fitted to the axle casing.
Proceed as follows :—
1. Press oil seal (24) into the recess provided on the outer face of the bearing housing (25),
Note: Oil seals must always be fitted with the “knife-edge” towards the oil; in this instance that means towards the centre of the axle,
2. Press the’ taper roller bearing (27) into the bearing housing (25).
3, Fit oil seal (29) into sleeve (28), insert distance tube (30) into the bearing
housing (25) and press the oil sleeve (28) over the distance tube and into the bearing housing until it abuts the roller bearing.
4, Mount the brake anchor plate to the bearing housing and secure with six bolts, spring washers and nuts,
5, Fit distance washer (26) to the axle shaft (21) and press the axle shaft through the bearing housing, the housing being supported on the inner face of the distance tube (30),
6. Fit lock-plate (on some models only), lock-washer (31) and locknut (32).
Note: Axle shafts are fitted with a left-hand thread on the nearside and a right- hand thread on the offside,
7. Mount the complete assembly to the axle casing, adding sufficient shims (33) to permit barely perceptible end-float and secure with six bolts, spring washers and nuts.
Shims (33) are obtainable .005”, .01-2” and ,064 in thickness.


B. TO DISMANTLE.
The complete axle shaft assembly may be removed from the axlecaing after withdrawing the six bolts on the banjo flange.
Then proceed as follows :—
1. Remove lock-nut, lock-washers and distance tube (30).
2. To dismantle the bearing housing from the axle shaft, support the bearing housing face and press on the splined end of the shaft; it may be necessary to assist with a sharp blow on the shaft with a brass drift. A hydraulic or heavy-duty press, capable of a load up to 20 tons, will be required, and care should be taken to ensure that the pressure is applied squarely to the shaft.
3, Remove the inner oil-seal and sleeve by pressing out the inner roller-race ring. The outer ring will remain in position and a suitable extractor is required for its removal.
4. The outer oil-seal cannot be removed without it being damaged in the process, but as this item need only be replaced if it is defective, the point is of no consequence.
5. Remove the brake anchor plate from, the bearing housing.

Image


best regards

Mike

revvin18
Posts: 7
Joined: Sun Mar 22, 2015 3:04 pm

Re: '37 P2 /12 rear hub

Post by revvin18 » Fri Apr 03, 2015 10:00 am

Hi great thanks for that I have extracted the bearing assembly by dropping it onto a large wooden block but I found I had to heat the shaft near to the bearing before it would move ,
I have found the shim setting quite critical between too much float & too tight etc
Also the shims , hub, bolt holes parts needed cleaning / filing to get a nice fit otherwise they would not "go home" nicely , past use of hammers probably to blame .
Any sign of the workshop manual being produced again ?
Regards
Revvin

GOY189
Posts: 557
Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 5:08 pm

Re: '37 P2 /12 rear hub

Post by GOY189 » Sat Apr 04, 2015 12:34 am

Both the P2 and P3 Workshop manuals are now available again and can be ordered via the RSR website. (http://www.thersr.co.uk/club/rsr-publications)

best regards

Mike

Tangoman
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Apr 28, 2012 7:39 pm
Location: Padiham, Lancashire

Re: '37 P2 /12 rear hub

Post by Tangoman » Mon Dec 07, 2015 2:50 pm

Something in the above thread has been mentioned but an answer to one query not addressed. That is, when the hub (upset) is rebuilt and the lock nut tightened to the end of the available thread on the shaft there is still a lot of play in the bearing. The hub however is built up differently than the diagrams in both the workshop manual and the parts book in that the distance tube comes in 2 parts. A slack fit first part that butts up to the inner race of the bearing and a second part that sits between the first part and the locking tab washer which is a tight fit on the half shaft, I'm assuming this has been done at the factory to address a possible problem of the lock nut coming undone, although unlikely due to the handed threads.

Simply what I need to know is should the hub have any excessive free play when assembled which is then taken up once the hub assembly is fitted to the axle casing. This is where I find myself now.

Edit - On further reading of the manual It seems the hubs and half shafts on my 1936 car are from the Later 1938 model as appears on page K17 of the Reprinted with amendments 2006 manual.

My original query still stands though.

Thanks
John

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