water pump rebuild.

[Vince]

Hi folks. Got my 37 12 engine started today after its rebuild. I put the water pump back on just to see how bad it was when it was running. It has a distinct rumble and there is play in the bearing.
So my question is - how difficult is it to find the parts and rebuild or am I better off just getting a reconditioned one from Mike Evans?
Thanks
Vince

[Chris C]

Hi Vince,
I replaced the bearings on my 1939/14 last year.
Once you've dismantled it and got the old bearing out, you can take
the bearing part nos. off the race and then order them from a local
Bearing Factor. Or you can get the part number from the workshop
manual. I didn't need to replace the seal, but you could probably
make one from leather. You can also make a replacement gasket.

Full details on how to dismantle are in the Workshop Manual

Bearing Part Nos. Page 22/23 workshop manual
Outer bearing = SKF 6302
Inner bearing = SFK 6302Z (Z = a shielded bearing)
Cost = approx. £10/12 each (shielded one is slightly more)

[Vince]

Thanks. That's just what I needed to know. I'll attempt to strip it today. Sounds like it's going to be less hassle than I thought it might be.
Thanks again.
Vince

[luli]

Note that the 1937 pump is different than the 39 - 47 one. If you can afford it getting a reconditioned pump from an expert is a good idea, especially if you don't have a "back-up" pump. You can watch here how a later type pump is reconditioned (click "next" in the end). http://wp.me/pXLKy-1so

[Vince]

Thanks for the advice and help.
Got the pump stripped and cleaned and have ordered new ones from eBay at £6 each for sealed skf ones. Though I'd give sealed ones a go and see how long they last.
Now I know how, they are easy enough to replace if they don't last due to the temperature. You can also get high temperature sealed ones but they are twice the price so we will see!

Thanks again.
Vince

[chris dancey]

Also the 1934-35 water pump is different from the 1936-37 type. The earlier pump is non luvax and is lubricated through the front spindle grease nipple, the later pump is luvax lubricated. The earlier pumps were often replaced with the later pumps, probably due to the supplies running out, instead of fitting an extension to the existing luvax system, it was common practice to put a grease nipple in the luvax hole and use grease instead of oil which gave the pumps a shortened life, too much pressure and smaller luvax oil channels were not designed for grease.

[Vince]

Interesting.
My pump appears correct for the year ( according to the info in the manual) but previous to my ownership, the luvax has beeb disconnected and a grease nipple fitted. I am unsure whether to retain the grease nipple or to revert to the luvax or not bother with either due to the sealed bearings.
Opinions?

[Chris C]

If the Luvax is still fitted and working then I would reconnect it. Albeit if you have fitted sealed
bearings then the oil /grease will have a job to enter the bearings.

[Vince]

The bearings arrived today so I fitted them and reassembled the pump. Just need to reinstall.
The luvax pipeline to the water pump is missing and the regulator is missing so a bit more involved than just reconnecting. Working hard to get it back on the road so that detail can wait.
Flatted and primered the body shell today and will probably get round to painting next week weather permitting.

Thanks for the advice.
Vince