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1935 Rover 12

Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2020 5:34 pm
by digcot65
Hello just starting to restore the 12 `Ive bought and I may as well check the starter brushes while working on the engine.Is the large bolt,to hold the starter in .Looks different from the usual way of securing a starter Len

Re: 1935 Rover 12

Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2020 5:35 pm
by digcot65
Not sure if the photo went Len

Re: 1935 Rover 12

Posted: Sun Jun 07, 2020 2:27 pm
by HAD501
Len
Yes the large bolt secures the motor to the aluminium housing. I think you'll need to remove the motor and housing as one item by undoing the 3 nuts which attach to the flywheel housing, as the oil pressure relief gets in the way of removing just the motor.

Re: 1935 Rover 12

Posted: Sun Jun 07, 2020 2:58 pm
by digcot65
Thanks glad I asked Len

Re: 1935 Rover 12

Posted: Mon Jun 08, 2020 4:39 pm
by digcot65
Hello it says in the workshop manual that to remove the steering box the floorboards have to be removed and the foot pedals.The the steering column and box come out through the interior .On my Rover 12 there is a steel bulkhead ,has anyone else removed the steering column and box.Mine has about 4" play on the wheel.and I was told the previous owner was afraid to drive the car after it there had been some renovation work on the engine and body.Len

Re: 1935 Rover 12

Posted: Mon Jun 08, 2020 5:41 pm
by TonyG
Just had a look at my Tourer and I think the steering box is removed through the car because it will foul the front axle if you try to take it that way. Also you would need the car pretty high off the ground to manoeuvre it out from underneath, even if you removed all the steering rods, advance controls, radiator etc.

The pedals are removed so you can get the metal floor plate off that they and the steering column pass through. Suspect you will need to remove the driver seat but I cannot see that the floorboards are in the way.

The steering box is worm and nut type. Unless you can get hold of an undersized nut to recut the worm into, you will need to get a specialist to recondition the box. I’ve not seen the replacement bronze nuts for sale for many years and they only work if the worm isn’t too badly worn. With that in mind, you might want to identify a repairer before removing the box and rendering the car immobile.

Hope that helps.

Tony

Re: 1935 Rover 12

Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2020 5:41 pm
by HAD501
Funny you should mention bronze nuts, Tony - as you say they're a bit scarce these days, but...I was having an idle browse on ebay earlier and came across a guy selling bronze nuts. He had various sizes but all RH thread so no good for RHD Rovers. Asking price was £100 each.

Len, I had my post-war 12 box reconditioned a few years ago by an outfit in Birmingham called ICS. They replaced both worm and nut with their own parts developed for Series1 Landrovers which just happen to use a very similar box to P2 10s and 12s. This seems pretty successful so far - play in the actual box itself is now about half an inch. Cost about £500 inc VAT.

Re: 1935 Rover 12

Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2020 5:01 pm
by luli
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Re: 1935 Rover 12

Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 3:39 pm
by digcot65
Afternoon I`ve taken my steering box into ICS so now have to wait for it to be rebuilt.On my 1934 Rover 12,the SU carb hasn`t a plunger connected to the top plastic cap as usual SUs carbs have and looking at a drawing of the carb .in the workshop manual it doesn`t show a plunger is this normal .Also there is a knob on the dash which operates the long brass lever on the carb whats that for .There is also a choke knob on the dash which is normal I have never met the control for this brass lever ,its the vertical one at the front of the carb Len

Re: 1935 Rover 12

Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2020 8:18 am
by TonyG
Len,

I replied to this query on the other thread on Saturday. Suggest you stick to a single thread to avoid confusion when asking about the same subject.

Tony.