P3 Body removal from Chassis

[Jolly Rogers]

I thought you guys might like to see the photos I took recently of the body being removed from the chassis of my 49 P3.
The job was fairly straight forward once all the bolts ect had been removed, some needing to be gas axed due to rusted heads.
The steering wheel was also fairly straight forward in coming out once all the fasteners and electrical tube for the horn had been removed.
The only major problem was getting enough hight out of the front loader/ forks on the tractor to clear the chassis once the body was raised.

http://i1157.photobucket.com/albums/p59 ... 5290_n.jpg

http://i1157.photobucket.com/albums/p59 ... 2507_n.jpg

This is the Body that has a fair bit of rust and has had the rear door striker plates hacked out with an angle grinder. I dont know what im going to do with this body at the moment, it may be of use as body cuts for other cars but it is not beyond repair either, its just not something Id think about doing up when my other body is in much better condition.
The Chassis is in good condition, it had been restored at some point I am told, by the ROAQ (Queensland Rover Club) who has done a really good job of it.
I have the Chassis at home now with plans of sandblasting it and starting from scratch. Although all the rubbers ect are new and have not been used they have begun to perish in the elements over time and I feel it is easier to start again when everything is easy to get at then have to redo it later on a finished car.
The engine on this chassis is out of a P4, not to sure what it is exactly yet though, we think it is probably a 90.

[neil.henderson]

Hi,
Thanks for the very interesting photos - a very good idea using a forklift. I have the tractor but it has no forklift

I have a p3 6 light here which may get restored one day - but it will need the body lifted off as it has rusted sills. How are the sills on this car you are restoring? I will be looking for sills when I start the restoration job on mine and am not too sure where I will be able to find them.
Will be very interested to see how your restoration proceeds.................

Regards Neil
p.s. I also have a p3 4-light - it is in good nick though I am replacingthe big end shells this weekend.

[lakesrally]

Try Mike Evans for sills, Mike Couldry might do them too.

[Jolly Rogers]

Hi Neil. the body of the grey car is a bit of a basket case, its got rust issues in the boot area and large cracks in the firewall as well as the rear door strikers having been cut out of the B pillar. Otherwise the rest of the body looks to be in good condition, the sills are sound and the coachwork is mostly intact.
If I dont need it for the restoration of the green car seen in the pictures then Ill probably look at selling it to someone who can make good use of it in another restoration rather then scraping it.
I have 3 P3's in total, all 6 lights. One is in its original condition and not far off being on the road, only requires some mechanical attention and some seat covers, my plan is to drive and enjoy this car while I restore the other one then restore it. The grey one is as you can see and the other green one will be undergoing a full restoration, the grey and green one will end up being made into one car with enough spares to restore the first care once all that is done.
My mates Father also has another 2 P3's in his shed, one has been under restoration for as long as I can remember but stalled due to life commitments as many restorations do and the other is a complete car that requires restoration.'

My restorations will only proceed as fast as my Holden allows, I have an EH sedan as a second family car so its up keep is going to take a priority until I can upgrade the Wife's car.

[neil.henderson]

Hi Jolly Roger,
I'm planning to have my P3 4-light running well enough to take to Rove 2014 which I think is going to be in Northern NSW. Any chance that you drive your P3 there & we compare?
Woudl be great to meetup. I've just replaced the big end shells in my engine & am plannin gto start it up this weekend - so fingers crossed!!
BTW this forum helped me fidn a guy called Pierre Janusz in England who foudn a set of big end shells for me- so another source of parts + the guys in NZ showed me the website for a NZ supplier for P3 parts - maybe you already know these folks??
There is a fully restored P3 for sale in Canberra BTW - a 6 light. I had a look & the guy had done a great job.

Cheers Neil

[Jolly Rogers]

Gday Neil.
Im planing on having the drivable rover on the road some time in the next year. Ive got a few things to do before it will pass road worthy. So if the national rove is being held when Im on leave Ill probably try and make it.
As for parts suppliers I didnt know of those ones.
There have been a few P3's for sale in Australia lately, Ive even seen a P2 in the just cars magazine. If only I had more room.
Good luck with starting your engine, hope it all goes well. Have you turned it over by hand to make sure its free and not binding at all?
One of your rovers was the one that was for sale via ebay am I right? the one that had been back to England?

Here is a link to a youtube video of my drivable P3

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9sfvpZ6RTJg

Its not the best video, its my first attempt.

Cheers Steve

[Bernie Hurren]

Hi Steve

I remember watching your u tube clip just before we picked up my P3 and towed it back to Melbourne from Maitland N.S.W. I would love to know the New Zealand site as the little parts are getting very dificult to find.

By the way I am hoping to go to the rove as well I just would like to find a new diff to improve the cruising speed.

Bernie

[neil.henderson]

Hi Bernie,
I'm planning to drive to Rove 2014 in my P3 but also find the cruising a bit painful with high revs (so I tend to cruise at 45 miles per hour). At this speed it will take a while to get to Forbes.............
Have you had any luck working out which diff would make a good swap? Would love to hear about some experiences/ideas if you have some

Regards Neil

[Bernie Hurren]

Hi Neil

I have been talking to a friend here in Melbourne and he has a 3.9 diff out of a P5 in his car but believes the 4.3 out of a P4 is a better suit. My wife is enquiring about a 3.9 diff she just found if not there is a mark 1 P5 parts car for sale. Either way I will have a better diff. Both the diffs are shorter so a spacer (approx 1 inch) is needed to be made which I am told is very easy.

This is a job for the new year first I have to drive it to the Mechanic and get the roadworthy done on it but working retail December is not a goodtime for anything but work.

Bernie