Rover Sports Register Forum

I have received a reclaimed Solex 30 PAAI 2 carb but, does the emulsion tube simply 'push / pull' fit or do they screw in ? Also are the emulsion tubes universal as one of them was found to be broken where the correction jet screws in and needs to be replaced. Does any member know of a reliable supplier of parts for this carb. please.

I noticed on the 30 FFIA carb which I replaced on my car that the emulsion tubes did not seem to be firmly on but loose whereas on the refurbished replacement they are very secure. This may be similar in your slightly later version. I am guessing that the tubes should be screwed on or at least a tight fit . I am sure others will correct me if I have got this wrong. I never worked out what effect the loose tubes would actually have on the performance though
Rob

You could try The Carburettor Hospital - http://www.carburettorspecialists.com/ or the Carburettor exchange in Leighton Buzzard. Please note their new website as of July 2020 :- www.carburetterexchange.co.uk

regards
Mike

Thanks you guys. I have now carefully removed the white metal emulsion tube 'posts' which are push fit not screwed. I found that the actual emulsion tubes which are brass simply slide inside the deteriorated 'post'. The correction jets thus screw into the top of the push fit 'posts' keeping the loose fit emulsion tubes in place. So it is the white metal post for the Solex 30 PAAI 2 that I actually need. I have tried the two kind suggestions 'carburettor exchange and 'hospital' but they were unable to help.

If cannot find correct parts, we do have some unused parts here... Click

Fantastic do you please have a contact telephone here in England or an email address. many thanks. John

You can carefully glue the emulsion tube to place using Loxeal. http://www.loxeal.com/en/

Fascinating discovery!! I have (or had) a problem with idle speed hunting. The starting is good, the running is good and acceleration is good but she would not run with a smooth tick-over? I replaced renewable parts in the distributor. I purchased a strobe and set the timing. I purchased another Solex Carburettor (which means I now have a spare!) I checked all tappet gaps. I replaced the graphite spacer under the carburettor. I thoroughly washed the air filter. I replaced the spark plugs. I replaced the coil. I disassembled each of the HT leads to distributor and plus ensuring good dry contacts. I replaced the petrol pump and installed an in-line filter. I consulted new found friends and members. All the time my brain was saying, with all that done, it has to be air leaking in. All the time I kept asking myself what is this petrol drain union doing as it is not a ‘non return valve’? While the valve is in place on my car there is no pipe. So I started the car and warmed her up to running temp. She would still not run at idle without hunting. So I put my finger over the petrol drain valve and the suction was tremendous and as soon as I did this, you’ve guessed it, she dropped into a beautiful even tick-over. Removing my finger she went back to serious hunting. I removed the drain valve and fitted a gland to block off the drain and she has run beautifully. This is particularly wonderful, as you might image, when I am stopped in neutral at a junction (we don’t have traffic lights where I live). So I wonder if members have a view on this discovery.

Check the gasket between the body and the top of the carburetor.

luli wrote:Check the gasket between the body and the top of the carburetor.

Hello Luli thanks for your support. Is that the top section that you remove the four bolts to gain access to the petrol float chamber? If so I removed and re fitted that when I gave the whole carb a clean in my newly acquired sonic bath. Many thanks. Unless the blocking of the petrol drain gland is a 'No-No' I will leave it given she is running beautifully blocked off. Thank you.