800 steering rack gaiter change

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richard moss
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Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2008 5:23 pm
Location: Wolverhampton

800 steering rack gaiter change

Post by richard moss » Thu Sep 24, 2009 1:19 pm

This also covers much the same ground as a track rod end change.

First, chock the rear wheels, loosen front wheel nuts, raise car and support on axle stands. On removing the front wheel, the problem is obvious: the rubber has perished, the end has come off and the inner track rod joint is exposed to the elements.
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The first job is to loosen the locknut on the track rod end - a 19mm spanner on the nut and 17mm on the rod end. Don't move the nut too far once it breaks free - its present position will help you to maintain steering alignment (covered later).

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Once the lock nut has come free, remove the 19mm spanner and use a 13mm open ended spanner to wind the inner track rod out of the track rod end (you may have to leave the 17mm spanner on the rod end to hold it). You may need to release the clip on the end of the gaiter to allow the inner track rod to spin freely - although this was not a problem here!
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Keep going until the inner track rod comes away from the track rod end.
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If you are changing the rod end, you now just need to remove the split pin and 17mm nut from the rod end balljoint and use a balljoint splitter (or big hammer) to separate the rod end from the hub. For track rod end changes skip to the reassembly bit!

From underneath the car, remove the cable tie that secures the inner end of the gaiter.
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To fit a new gaiter, the previously mentioned lock nut will have to be removed. I marked this on one flat and then counted the number of turns required to remove it from the threaded section of the inner track rod. This allows the locknut to go back into approximately the right place on reassembly so that wheel alignment isn't too far out afterwards.
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The new gaiters AMK part number TSG21, £10 for a pair with new cable ties - bought at my local car spares shop, Motorcare, Wombourne, (01902) 898200.
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The gaiter is then slipped over the inner track rod, the inner end going over the end of the rack and the inner and outer ends secured with the cable ties supplied with the kit. I also greased the inner track rod balljoint whilst I had the chance.
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The lock nut can be wound back on now, using the same number of turns as required to remove it. The inner track is then screwed back into the track rod end until it the lock nut just butts up against rod end. This should put steering alignment reasonably close to its original setting.
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The lock nut is then crimped up against the track rod end (19mm and 17mm spanners).
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Just refit the wheel, lower the car, tighten up the wheel nuts and the job is done. If you are lucky, the steering alignment is close enough to be OK on the road - but in theory you should have it checked. The tracking was already out on my wife's car so I checked and adjusted it using my Trakrite (which seems to have done the job OK).
1990 827 Sterling manual
1990 Jaguar Sovereign 4 Litre on LPG
1969 MGC GT (currently hibernating)

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