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1936/37 Rover 16 P2

Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2019 1:36 pm
by saigonkid
Hi my name is Kevin , I am based in Littlehampton west sussex and I am new to the RSR and not too great with modern techno. so please bear with me . I bought my Rover P2 about a year ago and it has been stored since then while I built a garage for it to live in . Garage completed ,I am now starting to work on the car .My first job is to remove the rear leaf springs and to replace or re-temper them as the car sits lower on the drivers side , I am having trouble removing the shackle pins at the front end of the rear springs , cannot access the retaining nut etc . Has anyone tackled this job and if so any advice / guidance would be appreciated . My contact number is 07580849849 (hope this is allowed under forum rules) .
I wish you all a good new year and thanks for any advice

Re: 1936/37 Rover 16 P2

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 12:08 am
by luli
First you need to undo the U bolts. This job can be dangerous so take care and work safe. Do you have the RSR workshop manual? get it and read carefully before you start. Also look here: ... %90%D7%97/

Re: 1936/37 Rover 16 P2

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 1:03 pm
by saigonkid
Hi Luli , thanks for the reply . Workshop manual doesn't give much info on this process . My biggest problem is the limited access to the front shackle pin retaining nuts (not working on bare chassis , body still in place) . Is there a translation available for the the link you sent me . Regards kev

Re: 1936/37 Rover 16 P2

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 1:08 pm
by saigonkid
Hi Luli , disregard last question , I have managed to find translation ,(with help from grandson) .As you can see I,m not to great on computer .Thanks again for your post kev/

Re: 1936/37 Rover 16 P2

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 4:02 pm
by luli
Note that the car's floor is removable, and when removed gives good access to nuts. You have first to take out the rear seat. It is designed for that.

Re: 1936/37 Rover 16 P2

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 6:57 pm
by TonyG
Hi Kevin,

The tricky bit about removing and refitting the rear springs is releasing the tension on them before removing the shackle eye bolts. Make no mistake, Rovers are heavy old cars and there is a lot of power in these springs, particularly once they have been re-set. So treat them with caution and don’t get any part of you underneath even with all precautions in place.

It is no doubt covered in Lulli’s blog but I’ve yet to get the translation working on my Apple iPad, so apologies if my advice is repeating his!

First of all, jack up car as high as possible and put axle stands under chassis. Then let down jack so that axle is resting on lower bump stops (on chassis). Then find suitable blocks of wood to wedge between axle and upper bump stop hoops. Now the axle cannot move up or down on either side. Failure to do this will result in the axle twisting when the first spring is removed.

Next you need to make two extra long U bolts. I see in Lulli’s picture that he uses long bolts and and metal plates at the top. I made two U bolts from threaded rod bought from Toolstation.

Having freed off all four of the nuts on the U bolts but kept them done up, place a jack under the axle on the side you are working as a precaution. Then remove one of the U bolts and replace with one of your new long ones. Once that is bolted up tight, you can remove the other old U bolts and replace with the other long one and tighten the nuts.

With the jack removed you can gradually loosen the long U bolts and lower the spring so that all tension is removed. At this point the axle will be pulled up by the spring on the other side, hence the blocks of wood.

The spring needs to be unbolted at the rear first, it drops down and can be slid off the forward eye bolt. It is a tight fit and will bea fiddle but it will come off!

The other side is the same process. Refitting is the reverse but the springs will have more tension so take care.

You need to check the condition of all the shackle pins and spring eye bushes. In my experience they are usually devoid of lubrication unless the Luvax has been well tended, which is rare. I prefer grease on these hard working joints but many owners find the Luvax satisfactory.

I had new springs made for both my cars by Jones Springs. They are very helpful and reasonably priced. Probably cheaper than getting the springs reset and new bushes made. With that in mind, I’d get the new springs first and swap out for the old ones in one go. It saves having the car up on stands in your new garage for longer than necessary.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Tony Gilbert

36/37 P1 Tourer
37 P2 Six Light Saloon
Land Rover Discovery 3
Land Rover Discovery Sport

Re: 1936/37 Rover 16 P2

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 7:48 pm
by saigonkid
Thank you Tony , that knowledge makes me feel happier about tackling the job now . Regards kev