Bijur bits David Moseley's advert in Freewheel
Re: Bijur bits David Moseley's advert in Freewheel
As you can see in the parts list, Rover used the same front axle 39 - 47. Therefor some holes remained unused. You can cover them with a rubber plug.
Re: Bijur bits David Moseley's advert in Freewheel
Good Idea!
Does anyone know for sure what is the BiJUR meter unit's male thread that screws into the Rover components ?
The four SE2 meter units I have removed so far appear to have a normal male 3/B 20 BSF thread on the inlet(for the 5/32 pipe), and a male thread with a diameter of ~ 0.370 at the shoulder and down to 0.355/360 at the " business" outlet end. Is it a BSP Taper thread? It is, of course, quite short so not easy to establish the TPI, but it does not at first look seem to be a much finer (28TPI) thread.
Out of interest perhaps, is the fact that the rear dumb irons were fitted with the correct SE2s, but the front dumb irons were also SE2, not SE1....so would appear to be trying to supply twice as much oil as recommended...if it ever got through the bunged up meter valve! Only the rear dumb irons specify SE2...so where did the front ones come from?
I wonder what other anomalies I will discover. Cans of worms come to mind.
An aside...it might be worth setting this thread up on it's own as it has drifted away from David Moseley a bit, but I don't know how to do it!
David
Does anyone know for sure what is the BiJUR meter unit's male thread that screws into the Rover components ?
The four SE2 meter units I have removed so far appear to have a normal male 3/B 20 BSF thread on the inlet(for the 5/32 pipe), and a male thread with a diameter of ~ 0.370 at the shoulder and down to 0.355/360 at the " business" outlet end. Is it a BSP Taper thread? It is, of course, quite short so not easy to establish the TPI, but it does not at first look seem to be a much finer (28TPI) thread.
Out of interest perhaps, is the fact that the rear dumb irons were fitted with the correct SE2s, but the front dumb irons were also SE2, not SE1....so would appear to be trying to supply twice as much oil as recommended...if it ever got through the bunged up meter valve! Only the rear dumb irons specify SE2...so where did the front ones come from?
I wonder what other anomalies I will discover. Cans of worms come to mind.
An aside...it might be worth setting this thread up on it's own as it has drifted away from David Moseley a bit, but I don't know how to do it!
David
Re: Bijur bits David Moseley's advert in Freewheel
With reference to the currently available Bijur valves, I have fitted a set to my own 14 Sports Saloon. The way I managed it was to buy some 3/8 BSF right angled adaptors made by Tecalemit and threaded the Bijur valves 5/16 UNF which then fitted in to the "tube" end of the adaptor having discarded the olive and tube nut. This then fitted directly into the front dumb irons of the car. For the straight meter valves as fitted to the inner ends of the front and rear springs, I turned down the complete body of the Bijur valve to a plain 8mm diameter and made some bodies out of BSF hexagon bar, reamed 8mm. I used some Loctite 638 to secure the meter valve element into the hexagon body. (if you do this, take great care to make sure you mark the flow direction on the new body and likewise note the flow direction of the machined down Bijur valve otherwise the meter valve will act as bung)
As for where a straight meter valve is needed, the 1/8 NPT thread can be rethreaded 3/8 BSF without difficulty. In fact I did write an article on this topic for Freewheel a few years ago but it wasn't accepted for publication. If anyone wants to see it please send me a message and an email address and i will forward it.
As for where a straight meter valve is needed, the 1/8 NPT thread can be rethreaded 3/8 BSF without difficulty. In fact I did write an article on this topic for Freewheel a few years ago but it wasn't accepted for publication. If anyone wants to see it please send me a message and an email address and i will forward it.
Re: Bijur bits David Moseley's advert in Freewheel
Thanks for advice.
I managed to acquire a lot of Bijur bits & my system is reassembled...I hope it will work when pressurised. One thing I noticed was that all the valves , even after soaking in a penetrating fluid, cleaning in mild acid(well diluted vinegar!_ ant then going through an ultrasonic cleaner (so the SHOULD have been free of debris) were either very difficult to blow or suck through.....I will find out soon enough! I can confirm that ALL threads were 3/8-20-BSF
David
I managed to acquire a lot of Bijur bits & my system is reassembled...I hope it will work when pressurised. One thing I noticed was that all the valves , even after soaking in a penetrating fluid, cleaning in mild acid(well diluted vinegar!_ ant then going through an ultrasonic cleaner (so the SHOULD have been free of debris) were either very difficult to blow or suck through.....I will find out soon enough! I can confirm that ALL threads were 3/8-20-BSF
David
Re: Bijur bits David Moseley's advert in Freewheel
Just to pick up on the Lubetec metering valves. Although they are UNF threaded as supplied, they rethread with absolutely no problems to 3/8 BSF using only the die, a die holder and a vice. I'll have rethreaded about 40 of these so far and I've yet to have a poor thread on any. Doing this produces a proper thread, it's not sort of half and half or the like, all they need is to be started straight on and it's a very straightforward fix. No need for any other adaptors or couplings.
1934 12 Tourer, 1934 14 SS, 1935 12SS, 1936 12S,1937 10, 1938 20SS,1938 14S, 1939 16S, 1946 14S, 1946 16SS, 1947 12S
Re: Bijur bits David Moseley's advert in Freewheel
David,
The open tapped hole in the eye of the front axle is I believe for the Bijur meter valve for the kingpins to be fitted in pre 1947 models. In these earlier cars, oil was fed via a single meter valve to a hollow king pin where it lubricated (in theory) both upper and lower bushes. For the 1947 model year, the single meter valve was replaced by two meter valves to ensure a better oil supply to each of the bushes. The 3/8 BSF tapped hole should be plugged with a short hex headed screw and sealed with a fibre washer. If you have an earlier hollow kingpin, then water can get in via this open hole.
Many owners such as myself, have modified their cars to the later design to ensure an adequate supply of lubricant to the kingpins.
The open tapped hole in the eye of the front axle is I believe for the Bijur meter valve for the kingpins to be fitted in pre 1947 models. In these earlier cars, oil was fed via a single meter valve to a hollow king pin where it lubricated (in theory) both upper and lower bushes. For the 1947 model year, the single meter valve was replaced by two meter valves to ensure a better oil supply to each of the bushes. The 3/8 BSF tapped hole should be plugged with a short hex headed screw and sealed with a fibre washer. If you have an earlier hollow kingpin, then water can get in via this open hole.
Many owners such as myself, have modified their cars to the later design to ensure an adequate supply of lubricant to the kingpins.
Re: Bijur bits David Moseley's advert in Freewheel
Thanks for that update. Without peering under the car I cannot be certain, but I am pretty sure I have the two meter vave set up. Whatever...I have plugged the holes with short Allen screws. The level of oil in the reservoir is going own reassuringly, but a job for the winter is to apply pressure to the system and check to see if oil is actually going where it should...
Does anyone have any real world tips on how to do this ? I have a blanking plug in the system by the reservoir.
As I have done over 1500 miles since I reassembled the system it it time to see if there is oil where it should be!
Does anyone have any real world tips on how to do this ? I have a blanking plug in the system by the reservoir.
As I have done over 1500 miles since I reassembled the system it it time to see if there is oil where it should be!