1926 Rover 9/20 2 seater parts wanted

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1926 Rover 9/20 2 seater parts wanted

Postby jp928 » Mon Jun 20, 2016 8:15 am

Major missing item is complete throttle pedal assembly - parts book shows it as a flat bar with a 90d twist mated to a rod mounted on the firewall. Also Lucas sidelights, any period taillights, number plate bracket; rests for the hood when its folded down, and the ironmongery that connects them to the interior woodwork.

thanks
jp Australia
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Re: 1926 Rover 9/20 2 seater parts wanted

Postby rob » Thu Jul 14, 2016 9:13 pm

Hi, I have a 1926 9/20 2 seat roadster. Although I don't have any spares I may be able to help with photos or measurements. The pedal is a rudimentary piece of twisted flat metal as the parts book shows. I do have a contact somewhere for a gentleman in NSW who somehow found out I had the car??? He is a long time 9 enthusiast. Regards Rob.
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Re: 1926 Rover 9/20 2 seater parts wanted

Postby jp928 » Tue Aug 02, 2016 7:52 am

Rob,
Thanks for coming in! There are so many things I dont know, as the car has had lots of work done, but I dont know where it started from. I have a few parts that I dont know where they go- there is a long rod (4-5ft)with a T on one end and lots of thread on the other, that shows in the parts book as a brake adjuster, but I seem to have all the brake rods in place. There is a box of newly chromed fittings, but I have no idea what they are for - some probably from the soft top, but I cant visualize where they go. There is a 9 not too far from me, so I am trying to organize to go over it with a camera and notebook as soon as possible.
I have scans of the parts book and a 'looking after your 9' book, and a wiring diagram - if you would like a copy, give me an email address and I will send them to you.
I am running what I call a build thread here....
http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/forum/ph ... 8085cdf4bb

There are some measurements I could use, maybe you could take for me please-
height of steering wheel centre from the floor
front edge of seat base to start of toe board (floor at an angle) - or distance back to rear edge of door jamb?
width of seat base
height of seat base
width and height of seat back, and thickness

If you have brake lights, how are they triggered ?
How long are the stays on the sides of the dicky seat lid, and where are they attached - how far from the hinge line on the lid, and how far on the side of the opening?
Can you advise the thread on the nut that retains the steering wheel to the column please - dont have one!

Do you know any of the bulb wattages used ?
Pics of taillights and sidelights would be a huge help - there are few pictures of these around, and they seem to vary a lot. Car came with a pair of nice looking Rotax sidelights, but their mounts are wrong - the guards seem designed for hollow bolt mountings.
What sort of oil pressure do you see on a cold start - I have 3 oil pressure gauges, with scales of 40, 65 and 100psi - I think I have read that 20-25psi is expected in top gear at normal speed.

thanks
john
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Re: 1926 Rover 9/20 2 seater parts wanted

Postby jp928 » Sat Aug 13, 2016 6:41 am

Trying to start the car today without any luck. Have sparks at all 4 plugs, valve timing seems right (based on TDC mark), sprayed starter fluid directly in each plug hole. Nothing, not a pop at all. Starter makes the right noises, struggles against compression rhythmically, changes behaviour from advanced to retarded spark, but not a single noise at all.
Any data on plug gap please?

tks
jp
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Re: 1926 Rover 9/20 2 seater parts wanted

Postby Dirkco » Sun Aug 14, 2016 2:55 am

Hello JP,

Do you have the pancake style rotor in the distributor?

If so I found on my 9/20 that the shaft going into the Bakelite part had come loose and the shaft was spinning and slipping. I would get spark but the timing was constantly changing as the rotor was rotated. It took awhile to figure it out.

By the way your car is the only other one I've seen that is exactly the same body style. I also noted that you have a Coventry body number badge. I am now calling into question whether my car was Coventry built or Australian bodied as I had thought. Would love to see pictures of your engine, hood and frame as well as your wind screen. I have a few missing or incorrect items I would like to get right.

Hope this helps
Dirk in the states
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Re: 1926 Rover 9/20 2 seater parts wanted

Postby jp928 » Sun Aug 14, 2016 10:00 pm

Problem starting was ignition timing in the end. Maggy drive flange was almost loose on the shaft, and it does not have any sort of key to locate it on the taper. Once I had that located so points were about to open at SFA (spark full advance) it fired and ran briefly fairly easily.

jp
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Re: 1926 Rover 9/20 2 seater parts wanted

Postby jp928 » Mon Aug 15, 2016 12:00 am

Dirk,
The brass plate with a chassis no on it matches the engine no (50074), so I dont think its a body no. My maggy is a GL4, with rubbing contact rotor, and the rotor seems pretty tight in the gear. The GA4 on the spare engine has a rotor keyed to a round peg, and a bigger distributor cap. The body is a complete new set of panels, apparently longer than original as the restorer was a large gent and needed more leg room. Most of the woodwork seems new, apart from the doors and some of the flooring , and thats not all present . I have a bunch of newly chromed small items whose use completely eludes me.
I have the iron concertina parts and some wooden hood parts, but nothing else of the hood. Since the body isnt original it might be a struggle to get parts like the rests for a folded down hood worked out - where to put them?
Will do some pics of engine and windscreen stuff and post. What I need is some pics of throttle linkage in place, as I have absolutely none of that at all.
Engine:-
Image
Screen parts:-
Image
Image
Magneto - GL4
Image

thanks
john
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Re: 1926 Rover 9/20 2 seater parts wanted

Postby Dirkco » Tue Aug 16, 2016 3:23 am

Hi John,

Thank you for posting the pictures.

Here is a link to some pictures taken in your part of the world before I imported the car to the USA. It does show the linkage. I will get more pictures this coming weekend when I can get the car out.

http://www.roveramerica.com/images/r9_1926/index.html

All the best
Dirk in the States
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Re: 1926 Rover 9/20 2 seater parts wanted

Postby jp928 » Fri Aug 19, 2016 12:31 am

Dirk,
Thanks for this. Such a lot of differences in details. The original carb on yours has a throttle arm that goes up to open to the right of the throttle shaft, with the idle stop on the front side of the body; mine has idle stop on rear of body with opening arm close to the head,and rising to open...will make connecting it tight, and hard to fit the hand throttle connection.
Your windscreen is very different - flat bottom line where mine is curved to fit the scuttle - hopefully it does! My car also is set up to carry the spare wheel on the RHS running board. There are more pics on the build at http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/forum/ph ... hp?t=18536

My dynamo (overhauled many years ago according to receipts) is giving me trouble - does yours only have one wire coming out, or multiple? With one wire out - +ve volts, its implicit that the field coils are internally grounded, which makes the engine negative earth. With engine running I am seeing rapidly fluctuating voltages (DVM) in excess of 10v, and with a digital ammeter across the dynamo output, similar fluctuating currents.

thanks
john
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Re: 1926 Rover 9/20 2 seater parts wanted

Postby jp928 » Mon Oct 10, 2016 5:09 am

Update - sorted out the electrical issue. Adjusted the 3rd brush, but problem persisted. Finally got some emery paper to the cutout points (access ok, but angle bad), and on next run saw a steady 10A of charge.
Next.
No steering wheel retaining bolt present. Guessed at 7/8x18 - got a 60s Jeep sump plug - wrong. More research said its 27/32"x18tpi. Dont have an imperial lead screw on my lathe , so I cant cut one myself. Within 24hrs of posting a need for such a bolt on another forum I inhabit somebody had turned up a threaded piece of round that fitted exactly. Got an M24 nut, machined the centre out, got thr threaded section welded in, problem solved.

jp
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