Over heating P2

[wooster]

Thanks Jeff. Anyone got a copy of that issue of Free Wheel that I could borrow?

[lakesrally]

I'm not sure which issue it was in, it must be 20 years ago, but if you contact Anne-Marie she will be able to send you a copy of the article, I think it is only £1 per article.

[Chris C]

The article is in April 1992 of Freewheel, on pages 3281-3283.
Please advise if you want me to email you a copy.

Rgds, Chris C ( ccartmell@sky.com )

1939 - Rover 14 Saloon (P2)

[wooster]

Yes please Chris! I sent you an email.

[Phil - Nottingham]

When our 1939 16 dropped a valve and holed a piston in 2011 I had the head modified as suggested until then I had occasional overheating (water ejected from rad) even after de-silting the block with vinegar which worked very well and recoring the rad.

I have had no problems whatsoever since although the rearmost holes in the head are untouched in size the front ones are very small and I suspect may block up.

The work was carried out by Steven Cotterill of Clay Cross who do not need to advertise but I have every confidence in as long as there is no hurry

[wooster]

Yeah I've spoken to Cotterills. Thing is I have a local guy doing lots of other work on the head and it seems daft to send it to a second person. I'd like to get all the work done in one hit by one person.

[jefflee]

Hi All,
I think Mike Couldry had good quality head gaskets made for his 20hp
Perhaps a manufacturer could be found to make a batch of head gaskets for all the relevant 6 cyl. models with the smaller hole to front spec.
This would make it much easier to cure the problem.
cheers Jeff.

[Phil - Nottingham]

If you are having work done on the head make sure you have the alloy core plugs replaced with brass ones - they corrode and allow coolant into the sump - not good. Most of mine were wafer thin and on the verge of holing yet they looked perfect from above (the oily side)

I seem to remember the head gasket trick but it is not a lasting solution as the copper/asbestos is washed away from the narrowed holes - modern composite may be harder/more durable? The pump generates quite some pressure too

Running without a thermostat even with the pump outlet desilted will not allow proper circulation as it includes a bypass shut-off extension to ensure the coolant moves all round the block/head without taking short-cuts when its fully open

[wooster]

I've read the article that appeared in Freewheel (thanks for sending it Chris) but it wasn't a lot of help. I really need specifics as to which holes to narrow and by how much. Cotterills are (understandably) not keen to share their knowledge. Anyone got any specific details?
Thing is I'm on a strict budget. My local guy has done all the hardened valve seats and other stuff to the head and is now waiting for me to make a decision about the waterways. I owe him for the work he has done so far and I can't really afford to pay him and then pay someone else (Cotterills) to do the other work. If my local guy could do the extra work it would be much easier and cheaper. If I can't get detailed info we are going to take an educated guess and go ahead. Obviously specific info would help a great deal. Thanks everyone.

[luli]

I have discussed this issue with a fellow Rover 16 (1946) owner and he said that there is no overheating of his engine. His engine had never been modified. Israel is a much hotter country than Britain so the question is what is different?
And the answer is that local P2's are all (but one) post war export cars. They have a cowling and a 4 blade fan.
This may be an easier, lower cost and reversible modification to your car and you can do it later when more resources are available.
See more here: http://www.rover-forum.thersr.co.uk/vie ... ling#p5151