Hello,
Can anyone tell me whether it's possible to change the rear engine/gearbox mount (the big rubber block) without removing the gearbox entirely? The car is a '37 model 10hp saloon.
Many thanks.
Rear engine/gearbox mount
Re: Rear engine/gearbox mount
Yes. I have done it by just talking the weight of the box on a jack. All my floors are out at present which I'm sure made life easier.
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chris dancey
- Posts: 386
- Joined: Tue Oct 20, 2009 8:20 pm
- Location: Brighton & Paphos, Cyprus
Re: Rear engine/gearbox mount
Hi Joel,
Remove the four large rear support securing bolts and the retaining strap, then lift the gearbox with a jack, the support should come out easily backwards. When refitting the strap, there needs to be a small space between the gearbox and the strap to allow the gearbox to move, but secure, an old hacksaw blade was the past method of gap measurement.
Remove the four large rear support securing bolts and the retaining strap, then lift the gearbox with a jack, the support should come out easily backwards. When refitting the strap, there needs to be a small space between the gearbox and the strap to allow the gearbox to move, but secure, an old hacksaw blade was the past method of gap measurement.
1934 ( 1935 model ) P1 '10' Saloon RD 6160
1935 P1 '10' Saloon ( originally JB 6729 ) now VSJ 156
1946 P2 '14' Sports Saloon KPG 855
1933 MG J2 Cycle Wing Model APB 560
1933 MG J2 Competition Model ALX 124
1935 P1 '10' Saloon ( originally JB 6729 ) now VSJ 156
1946 P2 '14' Sports Saloon KPG 855
1933 MG J2 Cycle Wing Model APB 560
1933 MG J2 Competition Model ALX 124
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RovingJoel
- Posts: 15
- Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2013 6:48 pm
Re: Rear engine/gearbox mount
Many thanks Vince and Chris,
I thought it was probably possible. I was trying work out how much time I needed!
I get the dreaded clutch judder if I'm nothing but very careful and while I realise I probable will have to get to the clutch to check the toggle lever adjustment and the plate for signs of oil, I thought starting with clutch cable/compression rod and engine mountings seemed logical.
Thanks again.
I thought it was probably possible. I was trying work out how much time I needed!
I get the dreaded clutch judder if I'm nothing but very careful and while I realise I probable will have to get to the clutch to check the toggle lever adjustment and the plate for signs of oil, I thought starting with clutch cable/compression rod and engine mountings seemed logical.
Thanks again.