New '47 P2 Owner

[drodges8]

As a new owner of a '47 I have several queries.
1. What is the best /easiest way to access the instruments. I need to remove the clock in order to re-attach the minute hand.
2. Any suggestions for a suitable round replacement silencer/muffler.
3. Is there a suitable "Full Flow" oil filter "kit" available.
4. I need a Reserve Petrol Solenoid can anyone supply details or specification.
5. I require a Choke Light Sender (believe it fits on rear of head) details or specification.
6. Part #74146 Ash tray Bowl Rear (blue) x 2 wanted
7 Part #72753 Pillar Pull complete (blue) x 2 wanted.
The following may still be active. NB: 1947 Rover 16 sold at auction for NZ$18,000, all the other cars went above their reserve.
Event notice & updates: http://www.slipstreamcs.co.nz/vccbb/vie ... 1427#p1427
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tjV626R ... =youtu..be

[Chris C]

Congratulations on your purchase.
Here's a few tips on where you might source various items (albeit from the UK):

1 There should be two small access plates under the bonnet on the bulkhead
2 P D Gough - Nottingham, can make you a suitable cone shaped silencer in mild or s Steel http://www.pdgough.com/
3 There isn't necessarily a kit available, but it can be done
4 Can't help with this one, but I'm sure someone will come up with an answer
5 The RSR may have an old sender unit in our "store" @ Warwick
6 Like hen's teeth !
7 See attached link http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/catego ... rope-pulls

Hope this helps

[luli]

3 There isn't necessarily a kit available, but it can be done

This is extremely interesting! Can you please elaborate?

About the fuel reserve solenoid you can see some information here: http://wp.me/pXLKy-iO

[47p2]

2. Any suggestions for a suitable round replacement silencer/muffler.

I have a NOS one here if you want to drop me a pm

[Vince]

Regarding the oil filter.
I recently added an additional filter to my 12. I'm guessing that the oil plumbing on a 16 would be similar.
On my 12, there is an oil line that runs from the block to the front of the head. I interrupted this line and installed a filter using a home made bracket / housing and a standard spin on filter. I used the original oil line from the filter to the head and made pipework to feed the filter from the oil gallery on the block.
It won't filter all of the oil running through the system but I think that over time it should do a reasonably good job.
You can buy remote oil filter housings off eBay and I'm sure someone on here will be able to help with thread sizes and fittings. I got my fittings from an agricultural engineers but I don't know what thread they were.
I'll add photos when I've worked out how.
Vince

[drodges8]

Congratulations on your purchase.
Here's a few tips on where you might source various items (albeit from the UK):

1 There should be two small access plates under the bonnet on the bulkhead
2 P D Gough - Nottingham, can make you a suitable cone shaped silencer in mild or s Steel http://www.pdgough.com/
3 There isn't necessarily a kit available, but it can be done
4 Can't help with this one, but I'm sure someone will come up with an answer
5 The RSR may have an old sender unit in our "store" @ Warwick
6 Like hen's teeth !
7 See attached link http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/catego ... rope-pulls

Hope this helps

HI Chris,
RE: 1 Someone locally suggested opening the windscreen, remove all screws that retain the top of the dash then remove same. Is this an easy job? and does it provide more accessibility to the instruments. Cheers Mike

[drodges8]

3 There isn't necessarily a kit available, but it can be done

This is extremely interesting! Can you please elaborate?

About the fuel reserve solenoid you can see some information here: http://wp.me/pXLKy-iO

Hi Luli,
Thanks for the solenoid info: i shall need to investigate further but I would have thought that the reserve "pick-up pipe" would be in-place and the unit just requiring a solenoid switch...........we shall see.
Cheers Mike

[luli]

The solenoid resistance is 19.2 ohms, its outer diameter is 25 mm and length is 23 mm. I don't have access to measure the inner diameter but perhaps you can do it. This is sufficient information to a coil winder. But meanwhile be careful with the dashboard. The freewheel cable, the oil pressure hose, temperature gauge and speedometer cable are all attached to it. Just freeing the screws and pooling the dash can damage them. Also do not forget the windshield wishers knobs, and the windshield raiser handle. On top of it, the dash is connected to the "glove box". You can see more here: http://wp.me/pXLKy-282 and previus chapters.
(click (or right click) to view the full image of the "inner side" of the dash)

[Chris C]

Hi Mike, To get at the clock and remove it, first disconnect the battery (as your cars clock should be electric.
(Pre-war cars had wind up clocks). Then raise left side bonnet. On the top of the bulkhead next to the Rover
Vehicle plate there should be a large cover plate approx 4" x 6" held in by 4 x screws. Remove this cover plate,
The clock is held in place by a U shaped bridge piece, which clamps to the back of the clock with a knurled
thumb screw. Loosen the screw with your finger/thumb. Remove the bridge piece, then the clock will come
forward out of the dash. Disconnect the power cable and tape it off (so you can identify the wire again).
Replace clock to dash in reverse order. If there is a fibreboard covering around the back of the dash (under the
cover plate) covering the wires and backs of the dials, then you will need to carefully cut into it to gain full
access to back of dials/clock. Hope this helps, I've got large hands and I can get to the back of the dash this route.

[drodges8]

The solenoid resistance is 19.2 ohms, its outer diameter is 25 mm and length is 23 mm. I don't have access to measure the inner diameter but perhaps you can do it. This is sufficient information to a coil winder. But meanwhile be careful with the dashboard. The freewheel cable, the oil pressure hose, temperature gauge and speedometer cable are all attached to it. Just freeing the screws and pooling the dash can damage them. Also do not forget the windshield wishers knobs, and the windshield raiser handle. On top of it, the dash is connected to the "glove box". You can see more here: http://wp.me/pXLKy-282 and previus chapters.
(click (or right click) to view the full image of the "inner side" of the dash)

Hi Luli, Many thanks, this is excellent Mike