Rover 10 Special

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Rover 10 Special

Postby suri2 » Sun Oct 08, 2017 9:00 am

Hello Gentlemen,
can you advise me, please? I bought Rover 10 Special and I don't know, how tire pressure is correct. There is also plenty of clearance in the steering. Is there any real possibility of adjusting for such an old car? Thank you very much for your advice.
Jirka
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Re: Rover 10 Special

Postby djm16 » Thu Oct 12, 2017 3:42 am

Tyre pressure will be very different depending on exactly what tyres you are using.

If there is play (clearance?) in your steering then the track rod ends (TREs) and / or link rod ends are likely worn and need replacing. Or the steering box may be worn. It is unlikely to be an adjustment problem.

Most of us like to see pictures. :)
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Re: Rover 10 Special

Postby suri2 » Thu Oct 12, 2017 4:00 pm

Hi,
I have tyres Excelsior 4.75/5x18 diagonal.
Lucy I bought in GB and brought it to the Czech Republic. The original license plate was VV 2168.
I attach some photos. Today she is already driving with other licens plate.
I will try to find out where the control inaccuracy is exactly generated.
Image
Image
Image
Image

Thanks

Jirka
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Re: Rover 10 Special

Postby GOY189 » Mon Oct 16, 2017 10:13 am

Hi Suri,

The Drivers handbook specifies 28 pounds per square inch (1.93 bar) in the front tyres and 32 pounds per square inch ( 2.2 bar) in the rear tyres. The steering box is a Marles-Weller type. Apparently some spare parts may be available as some dumper trucks (nákladní auta sklápěčů) have marles weller steering.

Let me know if you need a handbook or instructions for overhaul of the steering.

Kind regards

Mike Maher
Chairman, Rover Sports Register
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Re: Rover 10 Special

Postby suri2 » Tue Oct 17, 2017 5:57 pm

Hi Mike,

Thank you very much for the information. Some are really hard to find.
The Handbook and instructions for the overhaul of the steering really helped me a lot. I will be very glad, if you can send it to me. Many thanks.

In the vintage cars area, I am a greenhorn. But it's magical to see and go in something that's almost twice as old as I am. I still have a lot to learn, but I think I will stay with this hobby.

I also have one serious security issue. The door opens spontaneously when driving.
Anyone have any experience with dropped doors, please? Will it be enough to use a diagonal tensioner? I was not looking yet if it could ever be used.
Thanks.

Suri
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Re: Rover 10 Special

Postby jp928 » Mon Oct 23, 2017 7:34 am

Suri,
Re the doors - in P2 and P3 (47-49) the door hinges had soft cast metal 'balls' in them - conical on top, spherical in bottom. When these wore (quickly!) the doors would drop. If you can see slack at the hinges this might be your problem. Get some help to hold the door, loosen the bolts through both the hinges and lift the door a little (10mm), and see if there is a grey metal ball in there. If so, and they are visibly worn, you need to replace them. If not to be found readily, they should be easy to copy in brass in a machine shop.
Check here - https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/parts ... -and-balls - pictures so you can see what to look for.
and this thread here..
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=4503
hth
jp 26 Rover 9
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Re: Rover 10 Special

Postby suri2 » Mon Oct 23, 2017 7:24 pm

Hi John,

thank you very much for your advice. I'll try to check the hinges. This could partly solve my problem. Unfortunately, I'm afraid there will be a problem with the wooden door frame. It looks like the front edge of the door has dropped by its own weight. The side further from the hinges is below. Somewhere I read that threaded tensioners are used for these cases. The tensioner is mounted diagonally on the top of the hinges and down the crank side. So much theory. It would help me if someone has this experience.

I am sorry for my bad English.

Thanks

Regards

Suri
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