Rover Sports Register Forum

IMG_4513.JPG Current progress of the indepth total restoration of our ' Snowdrop ' has seen the completion of the removal of all previous restoration patches, some showing rust corrosion and insertion of new steel. All four wings removed and rebuilt, with the adding of the support wired rails to th...

Good Evening Mike, I am trying to contact you, Best Regards, Chris Dancey

I am lucky in owning' Denzel ' 10hp 1935,totally original and unmolested.Has original coachlines still in place. A topic for the next ' tenners' meet up.

Does anyone have the paint code for the Rover Dark Grey. My P4 is Dark Grey /Dove Grey, I am ok for the Dove Grey. Thanks.

Help please. Does anyone have a paint colour code or description for 1950s/60s Rover Dark Grey. My P4 is two tone Dark / Dove Grey but I cannot find a colour code for the Dark Grey. Thanks

I am thinking that the problem may be with your inline filter. Personally I site the filter nearer the pump outlet ( if you have an electric pump fitted..and fitted to the rear of the car ). Might be worth trying to remove the filter and fix a tempory piece of clipped plastic ( or similar ) pipe to ...

I use plumbing PTFE tape to seal joints, works well.

Spot on Tony, Keeping the longer reserve pipe active is what I was trying to say, this is of course the reserve pipe. Like you I now braze up the head and bottom of the main pipe to seal, this prevents the problems of drawing in air.

Sports Saloon 1934 would have had the battery under the rear seat, ( passenger ) near side. I have seen a few Rovers with the battery mounted in the engine bay but this was an after thought exercise to assist with access, and to shorten the supply cable.

Personally, on prewar cars with this type of double tube system I would seal the shorter main pipe top and bottom and just rely on the reserve draw pipe making sure this is airtight. The early cars had a manual operated reserve that involved cork pistons that invarioubly leak, especially if they get...