Earth strap fitted. All now working as it should.
Drove the car to North Shropshire on Thursday (nice sunny day). Did not use the motorway, but up the A 51 etc. Busy road, but traffic kept up with me ☺☺. No problems, the new (2022) radiator almost over cools the engine in winter (60-70C) !
Recent travels
Re: Recent travels
Sounds like a fantastic trip! Your journey reminds me of my recent stay at the westgate resorts, stunning views and vintage charm! For your braking issue, it could be related to fuel slosh in the carburetor during heavy braking. A fuel stabilizer might help. Additionally, checking the fuel system for any air leaks could be beneficial. Did you find a fix that keeps your car running smoothly in the end?
Last edited by Creidal on Wed Aug 07, 2024 11:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Recent travels
Thanks for the interest!
Things have moved on...the car (#110) runs well, but recently has given some bother with an overheating coil. This has been discussed elsewhere on the forum. I have also been sidetracked by acquiring another tourer #58 ! also featuring elsewhere
David
Things have moved on...the car (#110) runs well, but recently has given some bother with an overheating coil. This has been discussed elsewhere on the forum. I have also been sidetracked by acquiring another tourer #58 ! also featuring elsewhere
David
Re: Recent travels
I have added a spare coil in case it overheats again,but have replaced the condenser and fitted the distributor properly, so it doesn’t move about! In doing this I thought Ihad dislodged one of the dynamo leads as the car wasn’t charging when I started it up. I took the dynamo off, tightened up the terminals and had it checked (it ran as a motor ok) Repaced it….
No change
no charge!
Oh well it can wait until I come back from a holiday
No change
no charge!Oh well it can wait until I come back from a holiday
Re: Recent travels
any ideas where I can get a condenser from
Re: Recent travels
Dex 1961. I had a spare base (without condenser) but had a spare loose condenser with a fixing tag that fitted under one of the base plate mounting bolts so did not have to attempt to solder it in place. See comments about fitting condensers even outside the distributor body…it seems almost anything will do! Lots on the bay of E!
Timing readjusted, leads from dynamo all checked, but still no charge getting through…. The warning light dims, goes out, but then comes on as the dynamo speeds up. Very frustrating!
More head scratching needed… I don’t want to replace the cutout/ regulator (RF95 not RF91) unless I absolutely have to. Points are all clean & connections all good.It just seems a bit coincidental that this all happened when I had the condenser issue. Grr!
Timing readjusted, leads from dynamo all checked, but still no charge getting through…. The warning light dims, goes out, but then comes on as the dynamo speeds up. Very frustrating!
More head scratching needed… I don’t want to replace the cutout/ regulator (RF95 not RF91) unless I absolutely have to. Points are all clean & connections all good.It just seems a bit coincidental that this all happened when I had the condenser issue. Grr!
Re: Recent travels
Dear David,
Over the years both previous owners and I must have spent quite a bit of money on both New Old Stock control boxes and rebuilt ones, also new reproduction RF95 ones. The first lot usually don't work despite the cleaning of points and all the rest of it. That's why they are NOS, probably returns of duds that were put back in boxes and made their way to the back of a garage's stores. The second lot work a while then fail. The third lot can be ok although I had one that was a dud but the firm did replace it and it is still working.
An engineer I used to know told me to watch out for NOS piston sets for the same reason. He said all the makes that were worth having sold "back in the day" and all the makes that were left on the shelves were the ones that mechanics avoided if Hepolite ones were available.
For cars with two brush dynamos, rather than three, it struck me that the 22 amp RB340 regulator does exactly the job required and can be bought new and guaranteed for about £26, or 5 for £100. There are two ways they can be employed. One is to place them in an unseen location , under the dashboard, and leave the original RF91/95 in place with the wiring adapted to bypass the original unit for the dynamo cutout and regulation. The other is to replace the original unit with the RB340, which is basically the same size and the mounting holes are the same, and install a separate pair of fuses and junctions for the other wires.
I have thought long and hard about what components can be used to make the job look reasonably authentic and looked at the round Lucas junction boxes or the four fuse SF4 type fuse box. Just lately, I discovered the 2FJL3 unit that Lucas made. Perfect! Two fuses and junctions in a proper period item.
Now, I accept fully that this isn't original and I assure you I like originality as much as many of us. However, there is a question of just how many times and how much money can be spent on basically replacing one duff new item with another that is probably going to fail and is overpriced to start with. (Having said that, you have to wonder at the buyers of the "dummy" boxes for Dynalites and the like - well over £100 for something that could be made out of an old unit for an hours work).
The strange thing is, I have yet to have one of these RB340s fail, bearing in mind I have specifically put them there to be replaceable. The RB106 can, of course, be used as well but the 340 was the end of line for these as far as technical advances before all the electronic junk appeared. Yes, I'm afraid I am not a fan of the solid state stuff.
Over the years I've handed over some serious sums of money in the name of originality for electrical repairs (MG PB dynamo rebuild, RR 20/25 dynamo rebuild come to mind) and it's all been irrecoverable. The purists may tut tut about substitutes but I've yet to find one who wanted to put their hand in their pocket and pay more for the "right" thing when a car is being sold. Just some things to think over !
Over the years both previous owners and I must have spent quite a bit of money on both New Old Stock control boxes and rebuilt ones, also new reproduction RF95 ones. The first lot usually don't work despite the cleaning of points and all the rest of it. That's why they are NOS, probably returns of duds that were put back in boxes and made their way to the back of a garage's stores. The second lot work a while then fail. The third lot can be ok although I had one that was a dud but the firm did replace it and it is still working.
An engineer I used to know told me to watch out for NOS piston sets for the same reason. He said all the makes that were worth having sold "back in the day" and all the makes that were left on the shelves were the ones that mechanics avoided if Hepolite ones were available.
For cars with two brush dynamos, rather than three, it struck me that the 22 amp RB340 regulator does exactly the job required and can be bought new and guaranteed for about £26, or 5 for £100. There are two ways they can be employed. One is to place them in an unseen location , under the dashboard, and leave the original RF91/95 in place with the wiring adapted to bypass the original unit for the dynamo cutout and regulation. The other is to replace the original unit with the RB340, which is basically the same size and the mounting holes are the same, and install a separate pair of fuses and junctions for the other wires.
I have thought long and hard about what components can be used to make the job look reasonably authentic and looked at the round Lucas junction boxes or the four fuse SF4 type fuse box. Just lately, I discovered the 2FJL3 unit that Lucas made. Perfect! Two fuses and junctions in a proper period item.
Now, I accept fully that this isn't original and I assure you I like originality as much as many of us. However, there is a question of just how many times and how much money can be spent on basically replacing one duff new item with another that is probably going to fail and is overpriced to start with. (Having said that, you have to wonder at the buyers of the "dummy" boxes for Dynalites and the like - well over £100 for something that could be made out of an old unit for an hours work).
The strange thing is, I have yet to have one of these RB340s fail, bearing in mind I have specifically put them there to be replaceable. The RB106 can, of course, be used as well but the 340 was the end of line for these as far as technical advances before all the electronic junk appeared. Yes, I'm afraid I am not a fan of the solid state stuff.
Over the years I've handed over some serious sums of money in the name of originality for electrical repairs (MG PB dynamo rebuild, RR 20/25 dynamo rebuild come to mind) and it's all been irrecoverable. The purists may tut tut about substitutes but I've yet to find one who wanted to put their hand in their pocket and pay more for the "right" thing when a car is being sold. Just some things to think over !
Re: Recent travels
I replaced the dynamo with a dynamator. leaving the control box as conction box. This practically eliminates charging issues. See here:
https://lulis.org/2015/05/06/daynamator/
https://lulis.org/2015/05/06/daynamator/
Re: Recent travels
Thank you both for your suggestions.
I will look up thrRB340/2FJL3 option and get my google translator to sort out its Hebrew! Although the photos are,as ever,helpful
D
I will look up thrRB340/2FJL3 option and get my google translator to sort out its Hebrew! Although the photos are,as ever,helpful
D