Hi,
Looking for some help. I've had to replace the front road springs on my 1946 10 Saloon as they failed the MOT due to some cracked leaves. I have just got them back from the restorer and am about to re-fit. Now comes the problem! when I took the springs off I labelled which end of the spring was the forward end and which was the rear. Of course when I got them back from the spring restorer the labels were gone! I know I should have taken notes on which way was which but alas I didn't. When I look at the springs they are not equal length from centre bolt to each end. One half measures around 16 1/2 " from end to centre bolt, the other half 17 1/4" from end to centre bolt. so basically one half of the spring is longer than the other. So there is my conundrum! which end goes forward? the longer end or the shorter? I looked through several bits of documentation I have and can't find a reference to this other than a "trader service data sheet" for the 1946 models which says master leaves are marked towards the front. Unfortunately mine aren't! Appreciate any help you guys might have. Regards Nigel
Front Spring Orientation - 1946 10 Saloon
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RodScarman
- Posts: 15
- Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 10:18 pm
Re: Front Spring Orientation - 1946 10 Saloon
Hi Nigel
Ive got a, 47 12 Tourer and Im told the chassis is the same as a 10 HP Saloon. I did do a sketch before dismantling a few years ago but have just this minute checked on the car as well. ............... Longest end to the rear.
I also found on assembly a few years ago that they are "sided" [thats to say NS and OS due to the chassis being tapered. The holes for the bushes as not exactly at right angles to the springs. If you put the pins in place [or a piece of 1/2" bar] the taper can be seen. Whilst it is possible to force them wrongly into place, mine just "slid into place" when "sided" correctly.
I cannot guarantee mine was assembled correctly before my ownership [also with you?] but all seems OK. But as the springs determine the position of the front axle and the axle's position affects the front brake adjustment, I'd check the brake settings when assembled and with the cars weight on the springs. Especially that the "swinging link" [below the brake pedal] and "front compensator" are both within spec.
My phone number is in the Member Book, its a few years since I worked on the springs and I'm sure others on here can add to what I've said.
Where did you get the springs done? Did they do a good job?
Rod Scarman
Ive got a, 47 12 Tourer and Im told the chassis is the same as a 10 HP Saloon. I did do a sketch before dismantling a few years ago but have just this minute checked on the car as well. ............... Longest end to the rear.
I also found on assembly a few years ago that they are "sided" [thats to say NS and OS due to the chassis being tapered. The holes for the bushes as not exactly at right angles to the springs. If you put the pins in place [or a piece of 1/2" bar] the taper can be seen. Whilst it is possible to force them wrongly into place, mine just "slid into place" when "sided" correctly.
I cannot guarantee mine was assembled correctly before my ownership [also with you?] but all seems OK. But as the springs determine the position of the front axle and the axle's position affects the front brake adjustment, I'd check the brake settings when assembled and with the cars weight on the springs. Especially that the "swinging link" [below the brake pedal] and "front compensator" are both within spec.
My phone number is in the Member Book, its a few years since I worked on the springs and I'm sure others on here can add to what I've said.
Where did you get the springs done? Did they do a good job?
Rod Scarman
Re: Front Spring Orientation - 1946 10 Saloon
Hello Nigel,
I have just spent some time looking up Freewheel articles.
The crucial information is:-
1. The main leaf roll end on a genuine Rover spring should have two holes just visible where the roll meets the leaf at one end, and this the front end. This is designed to allow oil to be driven by the slipstream back over the spring from the Luvax lubrication of the front bush. If the holes are not there then the spring may be a pattern unit.
2. The thick end of the wedge between axle and spring faces front.
3. The axle mounting locating bolt on the spring is off centre of the spring, shorter length to the front.
Hope that this helps
Mike
I have just spent some time looking up Freewheel articles.
The crucial information is:-
1. The main leaf roll end on a genuine Rover spring should have two holes just visible where the roll meets the leaf at one end, and this the front end. This is designed to allow oil to be driven by the slipstream back over the spring from the Luvax lubrication of the front bush. If the holes are not there then the spring may be a pattern unit.
2. The thick end of the wedge between axle and spring faces front.
3. The axle mounting locating bolt on the spring is off centre of the spring, shorter length to the front.
Hope that this helps
Mike
Re: Front Spring Orientation - 1946 10 Saloon
Hi,
Rod and Mike, thanks very much for the information, Invaluable! I have also found a reference in a 1946 publication that states "all centrebolts offset to the front" so longer end to the rear has now been corroborated by three sources so thats great stuff. Thanks Rod for taking the time to go out and check your car. I had my springs done by Jones springs engineering limited. Contact was Kevin in sales. They seem to have a databook of most springs and could have built to order for the year of the car but I preferred to send mine down anyway to firstly ensure they had something to copy and also as restoration was an option it saved money! they are at the following URL
http://www.jones-springs.co.uk/
Total cost including carriage up to scotland (£20) and VAT was £156 for two springs inc. new bushes. I was happy with that. Thanks for the inputs re the brakes. I'll make sure I take a look when re-assembled.
I'm almost certain now that the springs on the car are replacements as they have no marking on master leave's and also don't have the holes you mention Mike. Useful piece of information re the wedge facing "thick end forward" as I can make sure thats right now.
Thanks again. Hopefully when I have a go at re-asssmbly next weekend It will go smoothly!
Regards
Nigel
Rod and Mike, thanks very much for the information, Invaluable! I have also found a reference in a 1946 publication that states "all centrebolts offset to the front" so longer end to the rear has now been corroborated by three sources so thats great stuff. Thanks Rod for taking the time to go out and check your car. I had my springs done by Jones springs engineering limited. Contact was Kevin in sales. They seem to have a databook of most springs and could have built to order for the year of the car but I preferred to send mine down anyway to firstly ensure they had something to copy and also as restoration was an option it saved money! they are at the following URL
http://www.jones-springs.co.uk/
Total cost including carriage up to scotland (£20) and VAT was £156 for two springs inc. new bushes. I was happy with that. Thanks for the inputs re the brakes. I'll make sure I take a look when re-assembled.
I'm almost certain now that the springs on the car are replacements as they have no marking on master leave's and also don't have the holes you mention Mike. Useful piece of information re the wedge facing "thick end forward" as I can make sure thats right now.
Thanks again. Hopefully when I have a go at re-asssmbly next weekend It will go smoothly!
Regards
Nigel