Rover Sports Register Forum

I am planning to replace the sills on my 1938 p2 14ss.
I have the sills & the instructions but was wondering if any one can provide me with a set of photos that show the process.
I am mostly interested in the front section as I understand that the bulkhead repair section is not currently available. (If any one has these for sale I could be interested)
Paul

Paul, sorry that i cannot offer you any help (yet) but i too have this job to do on my 1938 12ss this summer, so i'm keenly watching to see what response you get.

I hope someone can provide some photos, but if you decide to press on anyway do take some yourself!

I'd imagine i'm looking at a need for similar repair panels at the front (haven't got that far yet as i've only just got the car but i know its pretty rotten)- perhaps if there is enough expression of interest from other members too we will be able to convince the panel supplier to get a batch made. Might be worth asking what sort of order would trigger this.

Richard

I took loads of photos when I did mine 10 years ago (I fitted Mike Evans full set including B/C post inner bottom).

I will try to scan some - I had to fabricate part of the A post as the repair sill bottom was not large enough. I also had to fabicate the inner A post inner and out D post and outer B/C post

Well made a start on the off side sill, removed the step-board, front wing, most of the bolts unscrewed ok . link shows extent of rust damage! I hope to repair the inner sills by patching in the lower edge? Then fit the new outer sills. I am a bit concerned about the door gaps along the bottom, there has been some previous repairs to the doors & I think they are not true! The problem will be the datum for the positioning of the new outer sill, I am thinking that I will rely on measurements taken on the old sill and address the door issues at a later date.

Not sure if the following photo links are correct?

They are in better condition than mine were - the door frame probably has distorted - is it timber or steel framed?

The D post had gone on mine both sides as well!

Phil,
Door frames are timber !
Any chance of photos of your rebuild especially the sills?
Regards Paul

If the timber has not rotted these door frames are better and easier to repair without distortion.

I have not forgot about the pics but cannot find where I have stored them. Then I will have to scan them!

Just had another look at the rear doors, although the wood frames are not rotten they are full of wood worm! which may make them weak and hence I may need to replace the wood with new. The gaps of both rear doors are the same as shown in previous photos, just wondering if this gap is normal or should the door follow the contour of the d post? If this is the case what is the best method of re aligning them?
Paul

Mine do not stick out that much - but the timber doors were made to fit the car so they are all different - are you certain they have not been "restored" sometime as mine seems to have a very slight compoud curve all along the bottom - your seem straight as if a flat metal patch has been fitted across the bottom?

If the door frame has twisted diagonal pullingfrom bottom rear corner to top front corner may help but make sure no strain is placed on the door hinges and they are bolted through into timber on the actual D post as well as the door itself

I will examine mine more closely tomorrow

I have looked closely - mine - both sides are 17mm from outside skin to D post. The rear doors curve vertically from centre inwards by 20mm and horizontally 3mm.

So there is more of gap at the D post bottom end than anywhere else - anyone got other measurements to compare?