Rover Sports Register Forum

Hi all! I've recently fitted a pair of new springs to the chassis of my 1936 12 Tourer but they appear to be far too firm, compressing the bump stops and giving no real movement even with two heavy guys standing on the back! Removing a couple of leaves gives a little movement, but that is not a satisfactory solution and I want to get this sorted properly before fitting the body. The springs were made by Jones Springs to the 12 specification they had but this must have been for a saloon body. Mike Evans tells me that the Tourer should have had weaker springs in line with having a lighter body but was unable to help with the detailed specification. Does any other member have experience of Tourer springs or the specification? Better still would be if someone could point me towards another supplier who has recently made springs for a Tourer so that I can order a pair to the same spec. I have already spoken to Owen springs but they have no details of Rover 12 springs to work from. Obviously I can't send my existing springs as patterns as they are too firm. Any guidance would be much appreciated.

Hello Tony

I have a 1947 12Tourer and the rear springs that were originally fitted were from the 10HP Saloon. I've just looked in the "12Tourer Supplement" of the clubs "Master Spare Parts List" and its confirmed there. [Years ago a senior members of this club told me that the chassis of the 47/12t is also from the 10 HP car] Perhaps you car originally had rear springs from another model? My parts list is only for 1939-1947 cars. I would guess that some other readers of this list could look up the details for your earlier car.

In the late 60's I had my 47/12T springs "reset" by the local blacksmith, they completely broke two leafs and cracked a third, but he still reassembled them, hoping I wouldn't notice! I then fitted as replacements, "12 rear springs" (presumably from a saloon) and found them too stiff ..... hard down on the lower buffer [just like yours are] From then till now, I've tried removing various lower leafs but its a lot of messing about and hard work as you will know! The axle now rests about midway [for the fully assembled car, without any load] But the axle seems to touch the top and bottom buffer too much, even for minor bumps and pot holes. With hindsight I wish I'd have have fitted the proper 10 springs years ago.

I'd also be interested in the comments of others, especially removing leaves.

Rod Scarman

Rod, Thanks for your reply; its nice to know that I am not imagining a problem with Tourer springs and also that your experience with removing leaves confirms my own thoughts about that as a permanent solution. I do have the original springs but they were re-set 30- years ago and made far too stiff, which is why I bought new ones. Also the bushes were very worn. However, I think I may experiment with those and try to re-set them myself to an appropriate height. When I had a local blacksmith set the front springs (he didn't do the rear, someone else did) back in 80s he did this as a 'cold bend' by chalking the existing shape of the dismantled leaves on his bench and, starting with the main leaf, re-bending to the desired size. The revised spring shapes were then chalked and the other set bent to match. Of course, it remains to be seen if the front springs are right as I've yet to put the engine back in and bodywork on but the process sounds right and worth a try if I can't find a supplier who knows the correct specification. Once I am happy with the old springs it should be possible to get new ones made to match those or re-bend the new ones I have. Removing the springs is, as you say, a bit of a job but I have found that by using a suitable block of wood wedged between axle and bump hoop and changing one U bolt for an extra long one made from threaded rod, then taking the other out, its possible to simply lower the spring away from the axle by undoing the long bolts. This will be more difficult with the body in place I expect but there is the advantage of some weight to compress the spring using a jack. To avoid all that I really would like to hear from other club members re their Tourer springs though!

Hello Tony,
As regards weight of the tourer compared with saloons, please see attached extract from the 1936 salesman's booklet. Note the length of the sports saloon and 4 seat tourer.



The setting information for rear springs taken from a 1947 service newsletter is:-



The individual year parts lists don't have a specific reference to tourers, but show the same part numbers for all 12hp body styles (except the saloon). 14 hp sports saloons also have the same springs. This seems distinctly odd given the lighter weight of the 12 Tourer.

Given the rallying history, could it have been fitted with stiffer rear springs from new?

Hope this helps

Mike

Mike, this is really useful information. Given that there is a 200Kg difference in weight between 12T and 14, but the same springs shown, the Tourer must have been overlooked in the later document. I cannot imagine the current spring manufacturers will have more detailed information, which explains why both Rod and I find ourselves with the wrong springs. However, the data will allow me to check that my springs are set to the correct measurements, which is a great starting point. Thanks.