Rover Sports Register Forum

This car continues to amaze, Starts on the button in the coldest weather and reveal strange modifications!
There was a what appeared to be a 1" dia bulb sticking out of a nicely made hole in the dash, Grovelling around through the access hatch I found it was about 4" long with a couple of shielded cables attached. You have probably guessed....it was a radio valve! Why it should stick out of the dash? who knows/cares? Anyway I pulled it out and the hole will tale a 20 amp Charging socket very neatly! There is a radio antenna fitted, but no residual signs of where a valve radio & its power pack might have been fitted.
Next jobs are to get the centre spotlight working, find out why the ign. warning light doesn't' work (ammeter works fine) ,,,,more grovelling behind the dash.
The Temp gauge is cropped/ disconnected, so as a short rem measure I will fit an adaptor for a sensor into the Rad top tank to block vertical water pipe (I think there is enough space to allow enough flexibility) and puta spare temp gauge alongside the existing accessory Vacuum Gauge under the parcel shelf! I am also putting a battery cut out switch on the vertical panel beneath the back seat, This & the Cigar lighter socket should allow me to shut off the electrics and/or charge the battery without having to lift the back seat etc!

The modern adaptor was too long....There was not enough "give" in the now very short rubber hose sections to be able to bend them over the pipe from the Read ? thermostat. Drat ! I WILL find away.
I did 250 miles ibn last weeks sunshine ad it was a delight. She uses about a pint of SAE 30 per hundred miles & cruised happily at an indicated 55- a dizzy 60 on the Motorway, On give & take roads, no problem keeping up with traffic...the effectiveness of the brakes surprise some moderns as well!

About the issue of the warning light read here:

https://lulis.org/2017/10/19/%D7%99%D7% ... %99%D7%98/

Thanks for that article. I have a spare warning lamp that I will modify as suggested
I’m also looking at fitting a 20amp socket to power a phone etc by using an USB plug or it can be used as a charger socket for keeping the battery topped up ….I use a small solar panel that produces a trickle.
Car is still original positive
What could possibly go wrong?
Fused on the input power line which will come from one of the permanently live accessory terminals on the regulator/fuse unit.
I wish I didn’t think electricity was magic……

Most electronic devices can work only with negative ground. Choose between reversing the polarization (easy, free) or buy a low power dc-to-dc converter , install and use it.

Thanks for the advice Luli…trouble is you understand what you are doing & make it sound so easy!!
I don’t know why I’m not just flashing to convert to neg! I suppose I just worry about what else might get upset! Worked well on the ZA with its alternator! But this car is so un-messed about I want to leave as much as possible alone.
Dc to dc converters I don’t understand, they seem to be step up/down! Not anything with polarity!…?
Busy week, off early to get a new exhaust on this green car tomorrow at Gough’s, existing one is a bit home made…and falling apart !

I can live without electronics for a bit.
Plenty of life in the phone & a top up unit!
And the sun will be shining
D

All the original electrics on P2 cars are polarity neutral, indifferent. For polarity reversal you need to revers the battery and polarize the dynamo. That is done after the battery is reversed. Before starting the engine, connect briefly the live (+) battery conductor with the field terminal (the thiner nut). That's all.
See more here: https://lulis.org/2011/11/16/26-453-%d7 ... %99%d7%a7/

Got the isolating switch finally fitted ! On the little bulkhead under the rear seat.
And secured the battery