Body design 1932 10
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Body design 1932 10
Hi everybody, this is my first post to any forum so I hope I get it right.
I have a 1932 Rover 10 saloon rolling chassis which I purchased from RSR club spares, it came with very little in the way of body work, I am proposing to build a tourer version and need some help with details of a suitable body style, so if you have any drawings or pictures of a Rover toruer of this period or suggestions where to find them it would be very appricated.
I have a 1932 Rover 10 saloon rolling chassis which I purchased from RSR club spares, it came with very little in the way of body work, I am proposing to build a tourer version and need some help with details of a suitable body style, so if you have any drawings or pictures of a Rover toruer of this period or suggestions where to find them it would be very appricated.
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Re: Body design 1932 10
Just a quick note. I have deleted the duplicate topic and moved this one into the P1/P2 section.
Hope this is OK.
Forum Admin
Hope this is OK.
Forum Admin
Forum administrator
Re: Body design 1932 10
Hello Rob,
I'm doing more or less the same down here in Oz. The following are my Tips.
First sit back and think of what you yourself are capable of doing. From that you can make a list of what you need to farm out. By doing this it will help with getting an idea of cost and what you expect from the end result. The biggest thing on any kind of restoration or re-body is how deep your pockets are. That’s not a put of buddy but just to let you know it can cost and finding out what you can or can’t do before you start helps to make sure you get to finish it. For example perhaps instead of spending money out sourcing getting body parts made you could go to night school then buy your own tools and make your own. Something you will all ways be able to do. Perhaps you could book a course at the workshop that offers weekend body shaping classes, it advertises everywhere, and if you get stuck I’ll send an email to a web site link.
Sometimes you can get a bit overwhelmed by the whole. Break the project down to its component parts i.e. Strip clean and rebuild the back axel and diff, then sort out the gearbox, make sure the wheels and tyres are sorted, small simple stuff like that.
Now to the design. Work on the KISS principle (this is what Roly Kitcher used to do with his specials), Talk to those in the know about these old cars such as the 3 Mikes. Find as many photos or adverts from that period, not just of Rovers but other cars too. If you have ever seen a photo of a black Daimler Double six you’ll drool for a week. After saying that stay with the rover theme. Most of these pre WWII special never had doors. They can be a bit of a pain, as you need to have a firm A and B post to hinge and close against.
I mention the Kiss principle, tip on that line is, if you have a collapsing or small windscreen as in MG, you dont need to worry about a wiper set up. Which brings me to the last one? Before you start anything proper visiting the nearest vehicle inspection centre. Tell them what you plan to do and get any advice you can on what you cannot do to make sure it’s not class as a modern car. Make sure they dont think it’s some sort of kit car that you have to comply with SVA rules. I’m not sure of the full set up over there now as I moved down here 26 years ago but I would be paying them a long visit. Dot look up the nest as that can be very misleading.
Finally send an email to den@aachenkennels.com and I’ll send you photos of my car.
Well done.
DenGal
PS if you want gages or other parts done let me know as I know a brilliant chap in Kent who does them and at a good price.
I'm doing more or less the same down here in Oz. The following are my Tips.
First sit back and think of what you yourself are capable of doing. From that you can make a list of what you need to farm out. By doing this it will help with getting an idea of cost and what you expect from the end result. The biggest thing on any kind of restoration or re-body is how deep your pockets are. That’s not a put of buddy but just to let you know it can cost and finding out what you can or can’t do before you start helps to make sure you get to finish it. For example perhaps instead of spending money out sourcing getting body parts made you could go to night school then buy your own tools and make your own. Something you will all ways be able to do. Perhaps you could book a course at the workshop that offers weekend body shaping classes, it advertises everywhere, and if you get stuck I’ll send an email to a web site link.
Sometimes you can get a bit overwhelmed by the whole. Break the project down to its component parts i.e. Strip clean and rebuild the back axel and diff, then sort out the gearbox, make sure the wheels and tyres are sorted, small simple stuff like that.
Now to the design. Work on the KISS principle (this is what Roly Kitcher used to do with his specials), Talk to those in the know about these old cars such as the 3 Mikes. Find as many photos or adverts from that period, not just of Rovers but other cars too. If you have ever seen a photo of a black Daimler Double six you’ll drool for a week. After saying that stay with the rover theme. Most of these pre WWII special never had doors. They can be a bit of a pain, as you need to have a firm A and B post to hinge and close against.
I mention the Kiss principle, tip on that line is, if you have a collapsing or small windscreen as in MG, you dont need to worry about a wiper set up. Which brings me to the last one? Before you start anything proper visiting the nearest vehicle inspection centre. Tell them what you plan to do and get any advice you can on what you cannot do to make sure it’s not class as a modern car. Make sure they dont think it’s some sort of kit car that you have to comply with SVA rules. I’m not sure of the full set up over there now as I moved down here 26 years ago but I would be paying them a long visit. Dot look up the nest as that can be very misleading.
Finally send an email to den@aachenkennels.com and I’ll send you photos of my car.
Well done.
DenGal
PS if you want gages or other parts done let me know as I know a brilliant chap in Kent who does them and at a good price.
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Re: Body design 1932 10
Hi DenGal,
Thank's for the reply.
A great deal of what you say are wise words but with regard to the question of cost, this is not of major concern as I do most, if not all of the work myself. I am, as you say looking at several makes of the period for inspiration but find information regarding the Rover offerings hard to find. I will send you and email shortly with a picture of my starting point.
All the best
Rob
Thank's for the reply.
A great deal of what you say are wise words but with regard to the question of cost, this is not of major concern as I do most, if not all of the work myself. I am, as you say looking at several makes of the period for inspiration but find information regarding the Rover offerings hard to find. I will send you and email shortly with a picture of my starting point.
All the best
Rob
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Re: Body design 1932 10
I am trying to find the gauze size for the oil pick up filter in the sump so I can replace mine, would someone possibly have these details.
Rob
Rob
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Re: Body design 1932 10
I too are to convert ' Denzel ' 1935 10hp into a tourer ( from a saloon ), I shall restore all running gear etc. and create a new body on this. Must continue the dialogue, any tips will be useful.
Best of Luck, Chris
Best of Luck, Chris
1934 ( 1935 model ) P1 '10' Saloon RD 6160
1935 P1 '10' Saloon ( originally JB 6729 ) now VSJ 156
1946 P2 '14' Sports Saloon KPG 855
1933 MG J2 Cycle Wing Model APB 560
1933 MG J2 Competition Model ALX 124
1935 P1 '10' Saloon ( originally JB 6729 ) now VSJ 156
1946 P2 '14' Sports Saloon KPG 855
1933 MG J2 Cycle Wing Model APB 560
1933 MG J2 Competition Model ALX 124
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Re: Body design 1932 10
Hello, I have a Rover 10 special rolling chassis, having purchased it I was then able to check it against someone else's 10 special to clarify this but I do not have any registraction docs. stamped numbers etc. I was wondering if yours came with anything like this or whether the club advised you on how to take this forward. I am not sure if the 10 and the 10 special shared the same chassis but any help with cross referencing and confirmation would help.
Regards
Regards
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- Location: Brighton & Paphos, Cyprus
Re: Body design 1932 10
The two rolling chassis will be very similar, but not the same. If you haven't got an original steering wheel and you want one let me know , I have put on ebay.
I won't be starting my conversion for a while as this is the originality standard for the 10hp saloon I am currently restoring. My car ( which is more or less complete ) came with all the necessary documentation, including an age related registration number, the original number was sold off and is probably now unobtainable.
Chris
I won't be starting my conversion for a while as this is the originality standard for the 10hp saloon I am currently restoring. My car ( which is more or less complete ) came with all the necessary documentation, including an age related registration number, the original number was sold off and is probably now unobtainable.
Chris
1934 ( 1935 model ) P1 '10' Saloon RD 6160
1935 P1 '10' Saloon ( originally JB 6729 ) now VSJ 156
1946 P2 '14' Sports Saloon KPG 855
1933 MG J2 Cycle Wing Model APB 560
1933 MG J2 Competition Model ALX 124
1935 P1 '10' Saloon ( originally JB 6729 ) now VSJ 156
1946 P2 '14' Sports Saloon KPG 855
1933 MG J2 Cycle Wing Model APB 560
1933 MG J2 Competition Model ALX 124