removing the speedometer cable

[neil.henderson]

HI, hope soemone can help me with this one.................
I am taking the engine + gearbox out of my 1948 Rover P3, then I'll take the body off, then repaint the chassis & start reassembly including new sills.
But, I need to disconnect the speedo cable. I can see where it goes in the front top of the gearbox, have undone 2 bolts that hold a 3 inch wide plateon top of the gearbox in place - but I can't extract the cable out of the gearbox and I want to avoid damaging it.
So, does the speedo cable
a) pull out of the gearbox
b) unscrew somehow
c) not come out of the gearbox

I am familiar with taking the speedo cable out of my Triumph Stag, but can't see how this one works so any help, advice, hints, diagrams gratefull yreceived............

Many Thanks Neil

[P3Steve]

Hi Neil, I did the clutch on my P3 a few years back and although I cant remember the details I seem to recall that it didnt give me any trouble, Its dark now but tomorrow Ill have a look at mine to see if I can recall what you have to do, Regards Steve

[P3Steve]

Just to check, you said the cable went into the top of the box your not mistaking the free wheel cable for the speedo cable. The speedo cable goes in the right side (looking forward) low down almost level with the floor boards and towards the back of the box near the rear gearbox mounting and is held in place by the nut and pinch bolt that passes through the end of the cable at the gear box end. The free wheel cable goes into the top of the box near the front passes through the top of the box coming out the rear near the gear lever and is held by a small "nipple" with a grub screw, when released the cable can be pulled out from the front of the box and replaced by feeding in the same way.

[neil.henderson]

Hi p3steve,
Your advice is fantastic & you were right - the cable I was trying to remove was actually the freewheel cable as it turned out!! (so much for my Triumph Stag experience...............) .
Anyway, I now know how to remove both cables - which is what I need to do & I will get onto that tomorrow morning. I have been at work all week and it is winter here in the evening - so cold and dark - but I went out to the garage yesterday evening with a printout of your email & found all the right bits (fittings & so on) so easily.

So, thanks for your help p3steve - I think I may well be asking more questions as the project progresses - what do you think about replacing the single Solex carb with twin SU's?

Regards Neil

[P3Steve]

Hi Neil, just a quick note make sure the free wheel knob is screwed out so the cable is not under tension when you release it. As to the carb conversion I believe its one thats been done by a few people using the twin SU set up from one of the P4 models though not having done it I'm not sure which model has the twin carbs. It is suposed to give better performance and mpg. I rebuilt my carb a few years ago and all seems to be running well and I'm getting about 22 mpg which I believe is not far of the original book figure so as I dont do a lot of miles I'm tempted to leave things as they are, maybe someone who has done the conversion could comment on here (Dont hold your breath) any way Im no expert just good with a big hammer! but am happy to help if I can. The only jobs I've done this last few weeks was to give the rear springs a good greasing and while doing that found that the lower shocker bushes were well past there best so changed those (same as a Morris Minor by the way and only cost about £3) the only other job was to replace one of the adjusting shackle bolts with a new one on the off side and level up the suspension which was a little down on that side. so you can see my car is a very much a work in progress project with an on going program of jobs, the problem is I just like using her to much to take her of the road for to long. Here's a photo of my car taken at the Park Hill Hotel Lowestoft after a short run and Easter egg hunt two weeks ago

[paul williams]

Nice Picture P3Steve,

as for the twin carbs the cylinder head from a P4 75 1950/54 is the one with twin SU carbs. I know of one RSR member who has done such a transplant plus adding the rear diff from a range rover for improved cruising. PM me if you want his contact details.

[neil.henderson]

Hi P3steve, great picture.
Think I'll take a photo of my P3, then you can all share the enormous job I face!! I have got both the speedo & freewheel cables out. Now I am lifting the engine & gearbox out as a unit, but is seems reluctant to come out the front of the car - though the engine is swinging freely on the hoist.
Is it easier if I competely remove the rear gearbox mounting, I suspect this might be the sticking point?

Neil

[neil.henderson]

Hi P3Steve,
Just showed my wife the photo of your car - she loves the colours...............
a) did you paint the car yourself?
b) do you know what the red colour is called?

Thanks Neil

[P3Steve]

Hi Neil, sorry I wasnt me who painted the car it was done way back in the 1980s by the last owner who is no longer with us it looks a lot lighter in the photos than in real life in the flesh the red is a lot darker. I think at one time the bonnet was black as its a differant shade from the rest of the car. As I say it was restored in the 1980s and is beguining to have a few body issues - a couple of the doors will need work on the bottom edges and theres lots of cracking on the paint work all over when you look close but its all about time and money. At the momment I'm half way into the resoration of a 1957 Standard Ten when done the Rover will come off the road so I can address some of the issues on it but untill then it will have to soldier on, the mechanical side is not to bad and as I said its an on going program of work, so its more a driver than a show car. Here's another photo this one taken a few years ago