Hi Simon
Let me first of all say that this is covered by the RSR Standard disclaimer:-
Disclaimer:-
The Person raising the question and anyone using the response, uses that response and/or the advice given at their own risk. Whilst every care is exercised, neither the Rover Sports Register Ltd, nor the individual responding are in any way responsible for any incident involving the response however caused.
If you are competent to attempt the diagnosis, do so, but bear in mind that you will be checking fuel lines and high tension electrical circuits and take care. Otherwise let a qualified person look at the problem.
To run, a petrol engine needs clean fuel, a good spark and air. As yours isn’t starting or running,at least one of these components is absent.
Most of this is available on the internet, in particular check out:-
http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/t ... start.html
It says “The car cranks over but won't start. Check the fuel supply to your engine. If that's okay, check whether the electrical spark is getting to your spark plugs.”
Checking fuel supply
First, If there is a strong smell of petrol when you attempt to start the car, you may have flooded the carb (too much fuel.) Cranking the engine with your foot on the accelerator so the throttle is wide open will sometimes clear this.
If not, you need to check for fuel supply, loosen or disconnect the pipe from the fuel pump on the right hand side of the block to the carburettor. Watch while an assistant turns the engine over, fuel should spurt from the union.
Remove the bolt from the top of the float chamber, remove the top carefully, there is a needle valve and float arm underneath. Now look inside, you should see fuel and a brass float floating! If the chamber is dry, carefully free off the needle valve that has stuck in the closed position. If the float has sunk, it will need repairing or renewing. If the liquid in the float chamber is discoloured, there may be debris in the fuel tank, clean it up and fit an in line filter, Assuming that the chamber has clean fuel and the float is floating, fuel is getting into the carb. Replace the top of the float chamber and tighten the nut carefully. Now retighten the union and mop up any fuel that has spilt.
Remove the air cleaner. Standing at the offside, look down into the carb and you will see a piston (grey cylinder). Using a small thin screwdriver at the right of the piston, move the piston from right to left. It should move and return freely. This would indicate that fuel is getting out of the carb.
Check that pulling the choke control operates a lever that moves the brass jet in and out (The jet is on the right hand side of the carb.) This demonstrates that the mixture is being enriched when you pull the choke.
If all this checks out, the fuel side of things looks OK.
To check for a spark, first check that all the connections to the coil and distributor are clean and tight. Next undo the 2 clips, remove the distributor cap and check that the connections from the condenser (Tube shaped object) and low tension side of the coil are clean and tight. The low tension wire may be connected through an insulating block. Both wires must be in contact with the flat curved spring of the moving points contact. Switch the ignition on, using a small screwdriver, flick the points open and you should see a spark. This proves that the low tension side of the ignition is working.
Next use the time honoured way of checking the rotor arm, which is worth knowing if only to stop motorists chasing suspected red herrings.
Disconnect the HT coil lead from the distributor and remove the distributor cap. Make sure the points are closed, hold the lead end just clear of the rotor arm blade and flick the points. If you get a spark between the lead and the rotor arm it is a "dud". The carbon content (used to make a black coloured rotor arm) makes the plastic conductive and causes the charge to escape down the main shaft of the distributor to earth in the block. The brass stud/rivet on the top of the arm adds to this problem too. N B Red rotor arms from the “Distributor Doctor” are immune from this.
If you find a spark at the points and none at the rotor arm, put back the distributor cap and leads. Remove a spark plug, and replace the plug lead. Hold the plug with insulated pliers with the plug touching the engine, while an assistant turns the engine over. You should see a spark from the centre electrode to the side electrode.
If all this checks out, the car should start when all the plugs are refitted and leads connected. Be prepared to “catch” the engine with a small amount of accelerator if it fires. Let us know how you get on and good luck.
The only other thing is that the advance retard control should be set to retarded in order to start the car.
Best Regards
Mike Maher