Rover P1, 1934

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10SS1934
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2012 10:11 pm

Rover P1, 1934

Post by 10SS1934 » Wed Dec 19, 2012 11:14 pm

Hi, among my Rover collection is a 1934 P1 Rover 10hp 4-light Sports Saloon. Purchased from the second owner last August, it has an incorrect high-pressure fuel pump fitted. Given that the original AC mechanical pump has long gone, can anyone tell me the correct S.U. electric pump I should fit ? I can then get a new one from Burlen Fuel Systems. Thanks

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47p2
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Re: Rover P1, 1934

Post by 47p2 » Thu Dec 20, 2012 7:31 am

Speak with Burlen Fuels, they were very helpful in making sure I received the correct pump when I bought mine

lakesrally

Re: Rover P1, 1934

Post by lakesrally » Thu Dec 20, 2012 8:29 am

I agree, Burlen are usually very helpful. As you are replacing an original mechanical pump with en electric one then it will come down to whether you want to fit it at the tank or nearer the engine, at the tank it will need to be a higher pressure one than at the engine.

10SS1934
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2012 10:11 pm

Re: Rover P1, 1934

Post by 10SS1934 » Thu Dec 20, 2012 10:40 pm

Thanks folks, Burlen it is then!
Chas B

chris dancey
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Location: Brighton & Paphos, Cyprus

Re: Rover P1, 1934

Post by chris dancey » Sun Dec 30, 2012 1:27 pm

I used the SU electric fuel pump from an MGB with good results, readily available. I would suggest using an electronic type that does not have the clicking points, that would give this modification away. I made up a special bracket to attach the pump to the rear shock absorber housing.

If the high pressure fuel pump you have is a Facet, its possible to purchase a regulator which adjusts from 1 to 5 psi, the Facet is a far superior pump to the SU.

If its important to maintain the look of originality, obtain an original AC ' T ' type mechanical pump ....it is possible to blank off the working part of the pump to create a non functioning chamber through which the fuel is pumped on its journey to the carb.

Make up a blanking plate, ideally out of stainless steel to separate off the upper chamber and remove all non essential valves, push rod etc.

Alter the original diaphram, by removing the central section and post to form a gasket, this will give you the tab still sticking out the side of the pump.

I also turned the pump top round so that the inlet becomes the outlet, and vice versa, this leaves the new outlet facing forwards towards the radiator which is ideal for running a new section of petrol supply pipe behind the fan to the carb, this will help prevent vapour lock as the pipe is away from the effects of the exhaust manifold. The new inlet requires no modification as it is in the correct position.
If a photograph would help let me know.

Chris
1934 ( 1935 model ) P1 '10' Saloon RD 6160
1935 P1 '10' Saloon ( originally JB 6729 ) now VSJ 156
1946 P2 '14' Sports Saloon KPG 855
1933 MG J2 Cycle Wing Model APB 560
1933 MG J2 Competition Model ALX 124

10SS1934
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2012 10:11 pm

Re: Rover P1, 1934

Post by 10SS1934 » Mon Jan 21, 2013 5:24 pm

Many thanks Chris, I will take all this on board.

Chas Bayer
1934 P1 10hp Sports Saloon PO 9159
1939 P2 10hp Coupe FNF 138
1955 P4 '75' Saloon UKO 635
1957 P4 '105S' Saloon PMR 250
1932 Alvis Firefly 12 Cross & Ellis DHC VJ 4913
1934 Bentley 3.5 Litre Park Ward Sports Saloon AYB 246
1936 R-R 20/25hp Offord & Sons Allweather BWJ 600

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