p3 75 temperature problem.

[P3Steve]

When I fitted a new water pump I unscrewed the whole rear drain cock and back flushed the block using a piece of wire in the hole to break up some scale and crud it was surprising just how much muck came out and it helped the car to run about 5 degrees cooler so was well worth the hour spent back flushing the block, hope this helps Steve

[deckell]

Thank you steve for your words of wisdom i am in the process of getting a new radiator fitted.i will do as you say and give it a good clean out. regards Derrick.Smith.

[Freewheel]

On my P3 I found quite some casting sand collected at the base of the cylinder waterways - not the hottest part of the engine - once the side covers were removed.
I dug this out with a knife blade IIRC.

[jp928]

The other cause of undue heat while under load can be retarded ignition timing. As a general rule, overheating while idling but OK temp when moving is caused by poor air flow idling; bad temp while moving is poor water flow - pump or radiator.
jp Oz

[deckell]

jp982,thanks for your advice i have now cured the over heating problem with a new radiator, the old core was 66% blocked,now i am going to go through the process of plugs, points, rotor button, condenser,and a new distributor cap and the timing to maximize the performance and economy. but now i find the timing pointer missing it looks like it has been broken off.that will be the next chore to modify some thing to suit. thank again.regards Derrick.Smith

[jp928]

On simple ignition systems like the P3, my general timing method is to advance until it just pings under load, then back a touch. Use the highest octane fuel you can, as these will tolerate more advance and give more power, but be careful if you have to drop back to poor fuel . You may have to adjust the idle down after advancing the timing.
jp

[deckell]

Thanks jp for the advice i will try this method but not for a while as i have buggered my back and can hardly get around.regards Derrick.Smith