Rover Sports Register Forum

Hi Chaps,

I've got a Mini and in my battle against rust I have been replicating the corroded parts in titanium and stainless steel. I get the parts, mainly UNF and UNC threaded nuts and bolts manufactured and sell them on my website.

I was wondering if there are parts on the classic Rover's that always corrode and get stuck that I could replicate and sell in stainless or even titanium if you want the part to be completely corrosion proof and 40% lighter.
I'm thinking of the rear brake adjuster on my Mini that rusted and got stuck solid. I had to remove the radius arm and use a maff torch and ice to get it free.

I only manufacture turned parts at the minute and take measurements from the original parts, and model them in the computer. I can't really do one off jobs as that would probably be very expensive, but if it is a common part that's prone to rusting and I can sell a few of I'm sure I can model it up and get a production run of them.
The site is http://titanclassics.com/

Cheers,

Rich

http://titanclassics.com/
Kidderminster
UK

Yes we have Mini too - - stainless though must be used carefully as not high tensile but for things like chassis and body bolts etc it would be god. The Rover/Girling brake adjusters are not prone to seizure but the steady posts are.

Titanium sounds expensive - would that be high tensile as spring shackle bolts seize

Yes, I would be interested in Headlamp Bars for my two 10s, someone did advertise remanufactured ones in polished s/s ( in Freewheel ) some while ago but presumed they have sold out. I have had my originals rechromed twice.

Hi good idea as long as care is taken in the parts replaced like Chris I would be interested in the headlamp bars?

Sorry for the late reply,

Headlamp bars. What do they look like?
It'll be better to make those in stainless as I think it's shinier than titanium(and cheaper). I can't do one off's at the minute though as I broke my lathe and need to lug it out of my workshop for a lorry to pick it up.


As for stainless fasteners I preffer to sell titanium fasteners because they're so much stronger they're less likely to fail. The last thing I want is to advertise, say brake caliper bolts and for them to not be strong enough.

I'm learning a feature in the programme Solid Works in which you can put forces and loads on modelled parts and see where stress builds up and the programme will try a number of versions of the part and find the optimum one. It's mad!
I'll put some pictures on my blog tomorrow hopefully.http://titanclassics.blogspot.com/

Got a few flat parts cut out of sheet titanium today. Just Mini bulkhead blanking plates and alternator adjusters. They were cut on a CNC water cutter. Really amazing machine. I just gave them the computer model and the machine did the rest. It'd be expensive for one offs but you can cram lots of different shapes into the file and cut them out all in one go.

They can even make the dies for pressings from my models and do the pressing all in house.
It'll be a while before I'm at that stage though.

Cheers,
Rich
http://www.titanclassics.com/

Hi Rich, I could send you an original headlamp bar if you would like to have a look.

Has anyone got some boot cards for a '37 sports 16 and the circular ashtrays in the back seat arms. I also need a bronze knurled nut for the steering box .Please ring Gordon on 01539 821 621

Returning to the original posting for a moment, I have not found many small Turned items that would be improved by using stainless steel, but possibly:
Water Pump Shafts [spindles] with nut. But this requires a slot for a woodruff key.
5/16" BSF tall dome nuts [rocker cover etc]
1/4" BSF tall dome nuts for hooter brackets.
This applies to 47/12t's Im not familiar with other models.
Regards, Rod Scarman

Hi Did you get the headlamp bar to copy?

I am waiting for the ok to send the headlamp bars, I have originals to copy and would need four myself.