The restoration of my 1947 P2 12hp 6 Light is coming along well and I now have the Engine/clutch/gearbox all back in the chassis. But...Before taking it all apart the gearbox was all OK with a nice neat gear change action but now I am putting it all back in place I have the following problem. The bottom end of the gear lever is scraping on the top of the freewheel housing and at the same time the selector rod seems to be too high inn the orifice in the (Freewheel) casing - thus the selector peg is only just catching in the selector slots. As the remote selector is mounted on the chassis, there is very little scope for adjusting the position of the gearbox- the rubber cradle has been replaced and I have rechecked that it is seating correctly. The two buffers have been screwed into place and are holding the gearbox in position. (Incidentally, the two buffer pads I got from Meteor Spares were too long and they had to be shortened by about 3/8" - this is why I checked the rubber cradle as I thought it may have been holding the gearbox too high.) The shims between the upper and lower parts of the selector mounting bracket have been replaced as originally fitted
This is all very perplexing as the selector shaft and peg are too high whilst at the other end the the bottom of the gear change lever is too low.
I'm not sure if my explanation adequately describes the issue. But. I'm hoping it will make sense to somebody, and that somebody will have a solution to this problem. Any help will be very gratefully received. Thank you.
Speed Change remote control
Re: Speed Change remote control
Hello, I saw your post and the subject rang bells with me.
In a similar way to Jeremy Clarkson on Who wants to be a millionaire?, I have been in the same situation but an element of detail eludes me this moment (a before sleep chance find on the Internet while my wife reads more murder mysteries,.) but I shall try to tell you what I can.
Firstly, in the examples I had apart, in all cases the problem lay in the fitting of J1,J20 and possibly J22 if fitted. If you haven't had the change assembly apart and J 4 has not been removed from the shaft and replaced the other way round, as I remember the various parts, I would remove the four bolts J23, then lift the assembly off a little bit and set the lever to either the left or right so it will engage in one of the two end selector forks. Hopefully, you should see and feel J4 sitting in the fork with enough of its tip contacting the inside of the fork. If so, tighten the four bolts starting at the pair nearest the bellhousing and finish with the rear pair. (I seem to remember that seeing the selectors on the later boxes isn't as easy as on the earlier ones but there is an inspection cover. However, from what you've said I think you must already be able to see to them ?)
Hopefully, it will now work and if it does, it would appear to do with the arc J4 describes as it works and the finger sitting deep enough to work the middle fork but not deep enough to work the outer two. If that doesn't fix it, I will look at one in proper detail and see if I can remember where I went wrong then right.
I am also wondering about the scraping you describe. The alloy casting the gear change sits on should be completely level so it might be worth looking at it to see if it is. At present it sounds as if something is pointing upwards instead of being level, from rear to front. A small level of tilt at this point gives the result you are describing. It may be worth checking that J25 is absolutely flat on the chassis and I am hoping you will find something readily sorted in this area that is causing the trouble. Maybe something in this reply will result in that Eureka moment to solve the problem with little extra work for you. Good luck with it!
In a similar way to Jeremy Clarkson on Who wants to be a millionaire?, I have been in the same situation but an element of detail eludes me this moment (a before sleep chance find on the Internet while my wife reads more murder mysteries,.) but I shall try to tell you what I can.
Firstly, in the examples I had apart, in all cases the problem lay in the fitting of J1,J20 and possibly J22 if fitted. If you haven't had the change assembly apart and J 4 has not been removed from the shaft and replaced the other way round, as I remember the various parts, I would remove the four bolts J23, then lift the assembly off a little bit and set the lever to either the left or right so it will engage in one of the two end selector forks. Hopefully, you should see and feel J4 sitting in the fork with enough of its tip contacting the inside of the fork. If so, tighten the four bolts starting at the pair nearest the bellhousing and finish with the rear pair. (I seem to remember that seeing the selectors on the later boxes isn't as easy as on the earlier ones but there is an inspection cover. However, from what you've said I think you must already be able to see to them ?)
Hopefully, it will now work and if it does, it would appear to do with the arc J4 describes as it works and the finger sitting deep enough to work the middle fork but not deep enough to work the outer two. If that doesn't fix it, I will look at one in proper detail and see if I can remember where I went wrong then right.
I am also wondering about the scraping you describe. The alloy casting the gear change sits on should be completely level so it might be worth looking at it to see if it is. At present it sounds as if something is pointing upwards instead of being level, from rear to front. A small level of tilt at this point gives the result you are describing. It may be worth checking that J25 is absolutely flat on the chassis and I am hoping you will find something readily sorted in this area that is causing the trouble. Maybe something in this reply will result in that Eureka moment to solve the problem with little extra work for you. Good luck with it!
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AdrianGoodyear
- Posts: 18
- Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2023 4:52 pm
Re: Speed Change remote control
Hi
Thanks for your response.
I'll not get back to it until next week but I will go over your detailed response (with the manual in hand!) and hopefully that will throw up a solution.
Meantime, any further ideas will be welcome.
Adrian
Thanks for your response.
I'll not get back to it until next week but I will go over your detailed response (with the manual in hand!) and hopefully that will throw up a solution.
Meantime, any further ideas will be welcome.
Adrian
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AdrianGoodyear
- Posts: 18
- Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2023 4:52 pm
Re: Speed Change remote control
Hi (again)
Once again thanks for you response - I followed it though and I'm sorry to say it made no difference.
However, I went through it all again hoping for a blinding flash of inspiration. But alas no! But I did notice the the on the bracket that forms the gear shift mounting and the two faces that bolt to the lower part of the engine/gearbox mount were not parallel! This does cause the whole gear shift arrangement to go uphill towards the front - I am now getting it machined back to parallel and I'll shim it up to get back to the right position. The question that's nagging at me is why has this happened? The top part of the mounting bracket shows no sign of distortion and you'd have to be built like the Incredible Hulk to bend it! The search for an answer continues...
Once again thanks for you response - I followed it though and I'm sorry to say it made no difference.
However, I went through it all again hoping for a blinding flash of inspiration. But alas no! But I did notice the the on the bracket that forms the gear shift mounting and the two faces that bolt to the lower part of the engine/gearbox mount were not parallel! This does cause the whole gear shift arrangement to go uphill towards the front - I am now getting it machined back to parallel and I'll shim it up to get back to the right position. The question that's nagging at me is why has this happened? The top part of the mounting bracket shows no sign of distortion and you'd have to be built like the Incredible Hulk to bend it! The search for an answer continues...