No power from ignition switch to coil (sometimes)

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P27
Posts: 29
Joined: Thu Nov 28, 2024 10:29 pm

No power from ignition switch to coil (sometimes)

Post by P27 » Wed Aug 05, 2026 5:21 pm

The engine runs, but sometimes stops. Or sometimes doesn’t start;
We have traced the problem to power (ie electricity) not getting to the coil.
As a temporary test, we ran a cable direct from battery to the coil - and then engine runs fine.
We read that the Lucas ignition switch is ‘temperamental’ at this age. We also read that old land rovers have similar issues, and users have solved it with wd40 in the key lock.
Has anyone experience of these?

We would rather not have to remove the instrument panel, as we might create more problems than we solve;)

SHyslop
Posts: 150
Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2021 4:17 pm

Re: No power from ignition switch to coil (sometimes)

Post by SHyslop » Wed Aug 05, 2026 6:08 pm

I had this on two cars but the problem was the control box. On one, being a bit short of time, I put in a separate cable from the battery at the solenoid, to a switch, then to the coil. Everything worked. The separate switch meant I could turn the ignition off or on in the car. The original ignition switch can fail too but if you have an original, or old, RF95 control box, there is an internal connection that seems to give up the ghost. The temporary fix was replaced in due course with a new control box and the ignition switch is still the original so it wasn't the switch.

Now, if you suspect the ignition switch and don't want to disturb the dashboard, here's what you can do. First, do your sidelamps work? If so, then the A connection from the battery to the light switch is working. The A terminal on the light switch is connected to one side of the ignition switch so although the problem could be in the wire from the lamp switch to the ignition switch, you have narrowed the supply side problem to a very short piece of wire. If the side or headlights don't work when the car stops (of its own accord), the the problem could be the one I have mentioned above connected to the control box.

Next, connect a multimeter or an earthed bulb to A3 on the control box. Turn the ignition switch on and off. Does the bulb light or the meter show 12v or close ? Try this between 5 or 10 times and if it works, check that the ons and offs correspond with the turning of the key. If that works ok, the switch is maybe not to blame.

If you think about what the key is doing in the lock, it is turning a set of tumblers to make the barrel turn in its mount. Turning the barrel will be turning a brass set of contacts , probably on a plastic /Bakelite support, to connect A with IG. The WD40 may be seeping through to help clean some corrosion off, if corrosion inside the unit is a problem. However, what it won't do is repair a break in the rather small components should that have happened. The switch does not come apart easily.

I hope that maybe suggests some things to do without really taking anything apart.

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