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wooster
- Posts: 120
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by wooster » Fri Aug 15, 2014 8:51 pm
Well it was a bit better. I bumbled around the lanes for about 6 miles and all was OK. As soon as I got onto a main road and increased the speed (45mph-ish) the temp shot up. I eventually pulled up outside a lovely pub and after an hour or so, during which we both cooled down, I pottered home with no further problems.
Next I'll warn the car up and then run my hand over the radiator to see if I can detect any cold patches.
Cheers
Rich
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'39 P2 '14' six-light
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lakesrally
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by lakesrally » Fri Aug 15, 2014 9:29 pm
If there was a lot of crud inside the thermostat housing when you opened it up then that would suggest there is crud in a lot of other places too. Sounds like it is going to need a good clear out I'm afraid. If there was no thermostat in there either it also suggest this problem was known about. Best of luck.
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wooster
- Posts: 120
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by wooster » Sun Aug 17, 2014 11:26 am
Please gents, what is this little tap on the right side of the engine in my 14? Is it anything to do with the cooling system?
Cheers
Rich
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'39 P2 '14' six-light
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lakesrally
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by lakesrally » Sun Aug 17, 2014 12:34 pm
Yep, it's a drain tap, if you open it water should come out. If not then it's blocked with crud, try poking your bit of wire in but it suggests a build up in the water jacket.
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luli
- Posts: 667
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by luli » Sun Aug 17, 2014 2:13 pm
Can you upload a photo of the water pump? There had been several types of water pumps attached to Rover 14 1938 and some of them would not operate properly without the thermostat. They are designed to "short circuit" the radiator when the engine is cold, and to cut this "short circuit" when it is hot. Without the thermostat the radiator stays in the short circuit position.
See pictures here:
http://lulisml.wordpress.com/2013/03/17 ... %D7%AA-p2/
Also, make sure that the head gasket is in a good condition. You can do that by verifying that there are no bubels in the cooling fluid.
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wooster
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by wooster » Sun Aug 17, 2014 3:19 pm

Photos of water pump and block. Not having ever seen the inside of a waterpump before I'm not really sure what they should look like. But my guess is it shouldn't look like this!
So is that tap a later addition?
BTW I've just found out that the car is a '39 not a '38.
Cheers
Rich
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'39 P2 '14' six-light
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luli
- Posts: 667
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by luli » Sun Aug 17, 2014 4:04 pm
If it is 1939 than you should fit Mike Couldry's thermostat for the water pump to do what it should do. You have a lot of rust and sediment in the pump - but this is how they look after a long period of running without the correct coolant. I had taken mine apart, cleaned it with an electrical wire brush, then with acid, and finally galvanized it. New parts can be purchased from Mike Couldry or Mike Evans. Also read the RSR workshop manual for more details.
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wooster
- Posts: 120
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by wooster » Sun Aug 17, 2014 7:19 pm
I've cleaned the pump up as best I can and the rad looks OK (to me). Is there anything I can put into the engines waterways to dissolve the crud. Some kind of acid perhaps? I've read vinegar might do the trick or something called CLR. Any thoughts?
Cheers
Rich
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'39 P2 '14' six-light
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bill heywood
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by bill heywood » Mon Aug 18, 2014 7:11 pm
I cleaned my radiator with a washing up tablet. it was put in the radiator with some water and left overnight and the amount of crud that came out was unbelievable. Coca cola is another suggestion which appears to work very well.
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wooster
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by wooster » Wed Aug 20, 2014 2:35 pm
My 9 year old suggested Coke too! I've had my radiator flow tested and it's OK. I've cleaned the pump. Next I shall remove the head and have a go at the waterways in there.
Cheers
Rich
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'39 P2 '14' six-light