Not actually a Wilks car but this is probably the nearest forum group.
Has anyone got a 1933 14hp Pilot wiring diagram they could scan please? I've got various diagrams of other cars of the period but none of them are quite right. I've made an educated guess but would like to confirm my thoughts.
1933 14hp Pilot wiring diagram
Re: 1933 14hp Pilot wiring diagram
Email en route, diagram buried deep in my filing system!
Re: 1933 14hp Pilot wiring diagram
Desperately need a wiring diagram or details of charging layout (3-wire) for my 1934 10 Sports: can anyone help PLEASE?
Re: 1933 14hp Pilot wiring diagram
Hello 10 Sports, I saw your question last week but had just started a holiday in Italy and so while I could read the forum, I didn't have my access details to enable me to write, nor, of course, any paperwork from home.
I thought I might have had a diagram for the 1933 3 wire arrangement but didn't. However, I have had a look at similar arrangements and I used to have Austins with a similar arrangement. If this type of configuration is new to you, I am hoping that the following might give you a start in the right direction. Of course, if you know everything here then I'm sorry I haven't added anything useful!
The idea is that the dynamo has an output which is controlled in two ways. The first is that the 3rd brush is in a moveable holder and provides a range to limit the overall output from the dynamo. It is tempting to set this to as full a power as possible but these dynamos can become quite hot if they produce a greater output than they were really designed to do and they can "throw their solder" so personally I reckon that about 8 amps is enough.
The second method of control is by means of 2 resistances which normally live in what looks like a fuse box on top of the dynamo, secured by a wire clip. When the charging switch is just "On" or set to "Summer", depending on the type, both of the resistances are switched into the field circuit. When the switch is at "Winter", one resistance is in the circuit and when the headlamps are switched on, neither resistance is in the circuit and full power is applied.
This is made possible with the three cables. One is (or could be) Green and connects the "D" output on the dynamo to the "D" terminal on either the charging switch or the cut out. I'm being intentionally vague there because I don't know whether your dynamo has a cut out on the dynamo or separately fixed on the bulkhead. The second, a Yellow cable, would go from F2 on the dynamo to F2 on the switch and the third, maybe green and yellow, would connect the F1 terminals.
If all the components are original to the car, or exact replacements, then the system should work but it is important to bear in mind that if any part has been changed for a later type, it may not all work as intended. The resistance units can be found second hand but sometimes three brush dynamos have been rewired to two brush operation making a modern type Compensated Voltage Control box work with them.
I realise this may not be the information you are looking for but it is one of those subjects where actually seeing the components can make it all much easier. Hopefully someone who actually has this particular model may be able to tell us more accurately the colours and layout but if you have the components and no wiring, this might give a start as to what to be doing.
I thought I might have had a diagram for the 1933 3 wire arrangement but didn't. However, I have had a look at similar arrangements and I used to have Austins with a similar arrangement. If this type of configuration is new to you, I am hoping that the following might give you a start in the right direction. Of course, if you know everything here then I'm sorry I haven't added anything useful!
The idea is that the dynamo has an output which is controlled in two ways. The first is that the 3rd brush is in a moveable holder and provides a range to limit the overall output from the dynamo. It is tempting to set this to as full a power as possible but these dynamos can become quite hot if they produce a greater output than they were really designed to do and they can "throw their solder" so personally I reckon that about 8 amps is enough.
The second method of control is by means of 2 resistances which normally live in what looks like a fuse box on top of the dynamo, secured by a wire clip. When the charging switch is just "On" or set to "Summer", depending on the type, both of the resistances are switched into the field circuit. When the switch is at "Winter", one resistance is in the circuit and when the headlamps are switched on, neither resistance is in the circuit and full power is applied.
This is made possible with the three cables. One is (or could be) Green and connects the "D" output on the dynamo to the "D" terminal on either the charging switch or the cut out. I'm being intentionally vague there because I don't know whether your dynamo has a cut out on the dynamo or separately fixed on the bulkhead. The second, a Yellow cable, would go from F2 on the dynamo to F2 on the switch and the third, maybe green and yellow, would connect the F1 terminals.
If all the components are original to the car, or exact replacements, then the system should work but it is important to bear in mind that if any part has been changed for a later type, it may not all work as intended. The resistance units can be found second hand but sometimes three brush dynamos have been rewired to two brush operation making a modern type Compensated Voltage Control box work with them.
I realise this may not be the information you are looking for but it is one of those subjects where actually seeing the components can make it all much easier. Hopefully someone who actually has this particular model may be able to tell us more accurately the colours and layout but if you have the components and no wiring, this might give a start as to what to be doing.
Re: 1933 14hp Pilot wiring diagram
Hello SHyslop.
Many thanks for your comprehensive reply, very helpful. I suspect the gen is faulty and it is driven from the crank/cam chain, so difficult to remove. These problems we love as enthusiasts but some challenges are a step too far! I'll get there in the end and kind regards to you, from David.
Many thanks for your comprehensive reply, very helpful. I suspect the gen is faulty and it is driven from the crank/cam chain, so difficult to remove. These problems we love as enthusiasts but some challenges are a step too far! I'll get there in the end and kind regards to you, from David.