1934 Rover 12 running boards

Like a good wine, vintage Rovers need appreciating
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1934 Rover 12 running boards

Post by digcot65 » Sun Nov 15, 2020 10:05 am

Morning what is the best adhesive,to stick ribbed rubber matting to the running boards of my car Len

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Re: 1934 Rover 12 running boards

Post by TonyG » Sun Nov 15, 2020 3:00 pm


I used Evo Stick to do my P2 but I couldn’t say if it was the best glue for the job, only that it worked for me. Fortunately I had a tin of the solvent based contact adhesive as I’ve found that some of the non solvent or water based versions don’t work very well.
My Tourer has wooden running boards, which I assume your Saloon has rather than the steel ones found on P2s? The front edge is held down with a chrome trim piece and there is a chrome strip running the length of the board on the outside and across the back in front of the rear wheel arch. This helps hold the rubber on and was probably the original method for holding the board mat on. However, I’m pretty sure I glued mine on in the same way as my P2 with the addition of silicone or similar sealer between the rubber and wing where the trim screws go through. This is to prevent water running down the wings and getting under the rubber and rusting the wing. The wings are prone to rusting at this point, partly because of this but also due to the road dirt and water that are thrown up into the space underneath between the wing and running board end. To remedy this I made some aluminium mud deflectors which fix to the end of the running board and are sealed around the wing with seam sealer, blocking off the dirt trap. They are covered with rubber and look like little mud flaps.

Tony Gilbert

P1 12 Tourer
P2 12 6 Light Saloon
Discovery 3
Discovery Sport

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Re: 1934 Rover 12 running boards

Post by GOY189 » Mon Nov 16, 2020 12:34 am

Len, Meteor Spares sell the correct pattern Rubber mats for early cars like yours. There is a recommended adhesive. This info was first posted by Howard Buchanan.

"Having seen running-board rubbers which have become a little "baggy" in time, sometimes showing an unattractive blister-like effect, I'd be happier glueing them down. If doing it for the first time, the best adhesive to use is Alpha Thixofix S1470 contact adhesive which doesn't "grab" quite so quickly and finally as S708/AF170 or the general purpose S758/AF 176. Wipe the backs of the rubbers first with thinners to get rid of the waxiness of the mould release agent and lightly abrade before applying the glue. Plan the positioning carefully in advance and use a decent-sized brush- they're cheap enough these days. Make sure the glued surfaces are on the dry side of tacky before offering up, and avoid blobs of wet glue.
If high temperatures in use are a concern, try S1358/AF178, brush applied. The aerosol adhesives, both standard and high heat resistant, are not man enough for the heavy rubber mouldings. All these adhesives are available from Woolies."

Hope this helps

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Re: 1934 Rover 12 running boards

Post by RobHomewood » Mon Nov 16, 2020 11:43 am

Dear Len
I used the Thixofix adhesive as recomended by Mike Couldry after trying other glues I had without success. But I would say that I found that the 'rubber' (polyurethane apparently) needed somewhat more than 'light' abrasion to get enough key although if using a wire brush on a drill as I did you should be careful once you have broken through the shiny surface as it would be very easy to make a hole once the wire brush finds a key.
On the P2 at least the bottom edge/lip of the 'rubber' is clamped on between the valance channel and stepboard itself and bolted through. Because the rubber is quite unyielding I bolted and glued this edge first and then completed the rest of the gluing afterwards as it allowed me to smooth the rubber away from the fixed edge and around the radius and onto the flat avoiding air bubbles. I found it more convenient to do all of this operation before fitting the stepboard to the car or trimming the rubber to the final shape.
Good luck

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Re: 1934 Rover 12 running boards

Post by digcot65 » Thu Nov 19, 2020 2:51 pm

Thanks to all for the useful advice I am in the middle of spraying the car ,but once done thats one of the next jobs to do .I mentioned a while ago that I built a "TENT" in the garage to save dust settling also to save paint overspray getting all over the garage Ive sprayed several cars without a TENT and find there is always dust and overspray problems I have masked the car off except for the front wings which I am spraying separately,as to do all the car in one go risks touching wet paint as you move around spraying it. Had a problem having maroon paint mixed as there is no longer a specific maroon dye.However our local paint supplier is more than helpful and mixed paint,to the shade I wanted Attached is a photo of the one wing,the colour on the front is a reflection ,of the plastic "TENT" covering the other photo is the car nearly ready for the lacquer coats.Len
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