Engine Mounting replacement 12 tourer

[David2021]

Can this be done "in Situ"?
I am pretty sure my engine has dropped in the past 75 odd years, and the starting handle doesn't line up
How difficult is it?
Loosen / remove the bolts, Lift the engine on a jack (having drained the radiator to remove the hoses?)
Replace!
Simples! or not??

[HAD501]

David - some good news and some less good!

First, yes it is possible to replace the rubbers in situ - I did it 2 or 3 years ago. Second, as it was a while ago, I can't remember exactly what I did - must keep better records in future!

However, looking at the car now, I reckon I probably removed the L-shaped mounting brackets from the block. But it might be possible to lift the engine sufficiently to slide the old rubbers out without removing the brackets, or perhaps just loosening them. Sorry to be so vague - hope it helps.

Hoping to make it to Shelsley, DavidM

[David2021]

Thank you !
I can only make Malvern & the Dinner on Saturday
I shall think about the mountings. ..I too had a look -the upper bit looks ok, but is not under real load.
I expect they will be like the rear spring buffers...looks easy, but needs patience, cursing and more patience
First thing will be to see if anything stretches or is loose when I apply a bit of upward pressure!
D

[luli]

You don't need to replace the rubbers if they are in a reasonable state. Use spacers - shims. Easier.
See here:

https://lulis.org/2017/08/15/%D7%99%D7% ... 90-%D7%91/

https://lulis.org/2017/08/16/%D7%99%D7% ... 90-%D7%92/


https://lulis.org/2012/05/04/26-453-%d7 ... %94%d7%9e/

[David2021]

I already have the rubbers! so might as well use them. Now to look at Luli's blog before I start! Maybe I have to take front wheels off?
maybe not.
I will have a go at taking the weight of the engine on a suitably rigid /load spread jack and then free off the 7/16 centre bolt & take the engine brackets off. Only two bolts each side. This should I think allow me to loosely rebuild the upper rubber mounting off the car, put it back on the chassis and fit the lower rubbers then Simply replace the two 1/2in dia mounting bolts....Of course they will line up first time...and then tighten everything up!
What can possibly go wrong!
Watch this space

[Willem]

Hi David,

did you manage to change the mounting rubbers with the engine in situ?
I have found that the moounting rubbers have completely disintegrated, getting the bolts out is easy enough as is removing the top rubber, the bottom one is a bit more of a challenge. The workshop manual suggests that in order to remove the radiator the whole front wing assembly needs to be removed, it would be nice not to have to do that..
Will.

[David2021]

I think we did it by lifting the engine on the sump ( suitably loadspread) certainly no wings or wheels were touched. The guide on the crossmember is a **d to adjust . The handle on my other tourer also doesn’t line up so I may have to change the mounting on that next
Happy Christmas
D

[Willem]

Thank you for that David, once the bits are in after the New Year I'll have a go, the access is not the greatest but I'll figure something out.
Will

[TonyG]

Will,

Just had a look at my 12T and I think you could probably remove the whole engine mounting assembly, without needing to remove the radiator. However, to do this, I’d suggest removing the water pump, fan and hoses. Then, with the engine supported from below, it looks possible to unbolt the engine mounting bolts into the block and the mounting bolts into the chassis. Then the whole assembly can be lifted up the front of the engine and out. Once the rubbers are changed the whole lot can be refitted.

I’ve not done this myself so this is just a suggestion but whatever way you decide to do it, it’s probably a good idea to protect the radiator with a piece of board or rubber before spannering nearby commences!

Re the manual suggesting wings and rad removal; this is how the P2 is approached, although I think there must be easier ways. Having rebuilt both models I can confirm that getting wings, rad, bonnet etc aligned is a job best avoided. However, if you do decide to remove your rad, shell and bonnet, it is a two person job to lift the bonnet off and back on.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Tony.

[Willem]

Hi Tony,

Thank you for your advice, I did remove the waterpump and a few other bits, supported the engine and loosened the bolts on the engine and the 4 bolts that hold the engine suspension assembly, I would think that to get the job done properly it is neigh on impossible to replace the rubber mountings in situ. It took a great deal of persuasion and sharp tools to remove to old melted rubbers even with the whole assembly on a bench, refitting the rubbers was helped by using a bit of rubber grease to aid the fitting in the cups. The 2 main bolts have split pins fitted and to realign those would take more time than draining the radiator and removing the water pump.
I am now toying with the idea to take the head off and see if that needs decarbonising, I am a fair bit in that direction, just the exhaust manifold and some bits to remove...

I have put a couple of short videos on youtube with my exploits and I will add the engine mounting one to it shortly.

Once again thank you all for the advice earlier in the thread
Will.