Now into my second year of my (P2, 12hp, 6 light) restoration, I now turn my attention to the brakes....
Having dismantled everything prior to cleaning/repainting/replacing worn clevis pins etc, I find that there is a rod to the rear brakes that has a spring plunger device that (presumably) holds the rear brakes off unless the brakes are being applied. My issue is that the spring, stop and plunger seem to be seized and will not come apart. I have tried some tentative tapping to see if this will result in any movement but all seems to be firmly in place. I'm reluctant to try harder in case I damage parts I may find difficult to replace. Does any one have any experience of this and can, perhaps, advise?
P2 Brakes
Re: P2 Brakes
Hi Adrian,
You don’t say where this rod is located, but I’m guessing it’s the one that goes from the vertical swivel near the pedal box to the join where the handbrake connects? If so, I think this is the two piece rod that pushes backwards to operate the rear brakes. However, where one rod slides inside the other, there is a concertina rubber sleeve over the join. The purpose of this arrangement is so that the handbrake operation does not pull back on the rod going forward to the front brakes.
The rods can rust together and should be greased to prevent this and the rubber sleeve stops the water getting in. These are pretty robust rods so it is unlikely you will damage them. Suggest you apply liberal amounts of penetrating fluid before trying and if you cannot knock the outer off the inner (solid) rod, when held in a vice, then some heat might need be necessary. However, if they are impossible to get apart once some effort has been applied, you may need to source replacements but I doubt it will come to that.
I hope that helps and that I’ve understood the offending part correctly?
When I did my brakes, I had the shoes re-lined by Saftek in Cleckheaton. They turned them around in less than two weeks. I also found that slightly worn yolks could be drilled out and larger Clevis pins used or, where they were very worn, welded up and re-drilled to the original size. The biggest challenge is getting the front axle brake compensator to work without undue play and so it doesn’t foul on the leaf spring.
The braking system is all pretty simple and straight forward. Good luck!
Tony.
You don’t say where this rod is located, but I’m guessing it’s the one that goes from the vertical swivel near the pedal box to the join where the handbrake connects? If so, I think this is the two piece rod that pushes backwards to operate the rear brakes. However, where one rod slides inside the other, there is a concertina rubber sleeve over the join. The purpose of this arrangement is so that the handbrake operation does not pull back on the rod going forward to the front brakes.
The rods can rust together and should be greased to prevent this and the rubber sleeve stops the water getting in. These are pretty robust rods so it is unlikely you will damage them. Suggest you apply liberal amounts of penetrating fluid before trying and if you cannot knock the outer off the inner (solid) rod, when held in a vice, then some heat might need be necessary. However, if they are impossible to get apart once some effort has been applied, you may need to source replacements but I doubt it will come to that.
I hope that helps and that I’ve understood the offending part correctly?
When I did my brakes, I had the shoes re-lined by Saftek in Cleckheaton. They turned them around in less than two weeks. I also found that slightly worn yolks could be drilled out and larger Clevis pins used or, where they were very worn, welded up and re-drilled to the original size. The biggest challenge is getting the front axle brake compensator to work without undue play and so it doesn’t foul on the leaf spring.
The braking system is all pretty simple and straight forward. Good luck!
Tony.
Tony Gilbert
P1 12 Tourer
P2 12 6 Light Saloon
Discovery 3
Discovery Sport
P1 12 Tourer
P2 12 6 Light Saloon
Discovery 3
Discovery Sport
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AdrianGoodyear
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2023 4:52 pm
Re: P2 Brakes
Hi Tony
Many thanks for your response. Now you have assured me that they should come apart I will be more determined in my efforts - I'll give it a go tomorrow and report back. Thanks also for the gen. re the clevis pins - but that'll come later. Stay tuned!
Best wishes, Adrian
Many thanks for your response. Now you have assured me that they should come apart I will be more determined in my efforts - I'll give it a go tomorrow and report back. Thanks also for the gen. re the clevis pins - but that'll come later. Stay tuned!
Best wishes, Adrian
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AdrianGoodyear
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2023 4:52 pm
Re: P2 Brakes
Hi Tony
An update.
I took a large hammer and a drift and attacked the offending item with renewed vigour. It has moved about 1/4" and I can now rotate the Sliding rod about 30 degrees. This is real progress! I have (re)applied WD40 and Plusgas and will now leave it to soak for a few days.
TTFN, Adrian
An update.
I took a large hammer and a drift and attacked the offending item with renewed vigour. It has moved about 1/4" and I can now rotate the Sliding rod about 30 degrees. This is real progress! I have (re)applied WD40 and Plusgas and will now leave it to soak for a few days.
TTFN, Adrian
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AdrianGoodyear
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2023 4:52 pm
Re: P2 Brakes
Hi Tony
At last it's free! So, many thanks for you advice.
Best wishes, Adrian
At last it's free! So, many thanks for you advice.
Best wishes, Adrian