I've been asked to repair or replace the petrol pump on a 1937 P2, because it is apparently leaking petrol into the sump oil.
I've found a vid. here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFpMBkJHs0A&t=40s
Is this similar/appropriate to the P2?
Does anyone have the pump part number?
And advice where to get a replacement or a seal kit?
Any help much appreciated.
Petrol Pump repair/replace - 1937 12 P2
Re: Petrol Pump repair/replace - 1937 12 P2
I rebuilt the fuel pump on my 1936 Rover 12 with this: https://www.flexolite.co.uk/products/fp ... ent-to-bd1
Yours might be different, I took mine apart and compared the parts to the various ones they have on their website.
This worked for me but no doubt someone with much more experience will be along before too long..
Willem
Yours might be different, I took mine apart and compared the parts to the various ones they have on their website.
This worked for me but no doubt someone with much more experience will be along before too long..
Willem
Rover 12 Tourer, 1936
Range rover L322, 2009
Range rover L322, 2009
Re: Petrol Pump repair/replace - 1937 12 P2
Willem is right, Flexolite have all the right bits. You might just need a diaphragm from the description you have given but read on..... If you haven't worked on one of these before, things to know:
There are two separate types of valves. Older pump tops have paxolin valves (check the size , two widths available) with separate springs. Later pumps have caged valves which need prized out of the cover and driven in whereas the first type have three small countersunk screws to hold the valve cage in. Take a note of their orientation before removing, one goes up and one goes down. I have found cheap reproduction valves to be difficult to seal in the pump tops compared to originals or more faithful copies. However, you may not need these if they are in good order. Your pump could have caged valves but over the years people can change them depending on what was to hand. The video you have is of the type of pump fitted in 1934 so yours should be the more modern type but remember that , over the years, many eager hands could have been over your car and the pump could be (much) newer than the car - or not!
It is essential to check the seal of the pump top both at the cover seal and also the washer on the top bolt. These both must be airtight and remain so. The top screw can be a problem if the thread on the pump top has been overtightened and stripped.
Make sure the pump chamber under the filter is cleaned out while you have everything apart. If you want to be as safe as possible, once you've identified exactly which model you need parts for, a repair kit may be the most financially advantageous and then you will have everything you need to hand.
Once sorted, these pumps should give reliable service for thousands of miles, the only occasional maintenance being to check that the top bolt remains secure as they have a tendency to slacken off then people give these pumps a bad name when they don't work as they should.
There are two separate types of valves. Older pump tops have paxolin valves (check the size , two widths available) with separate springs. Later pumps have caged valves which need prized out of the cover and driven in whereas the first type have three small countersunk screws to hold the valve cage in. Take a note of their orientation before removing, one goes up and one goes down. I have found cheap reproduction valves to be difficult to seal in the pump tops compared to originals or more faithful copies. However, you may not need these if they are in good order. Your pump could have caged valves but over the years people can change them depending on what was to hand. The video you have is of the type of pump fitted in 1934 so yours should be the more modern type but remember that , over the years, many eager hands could have been over your car and the pump could be (much) newer than the car - or not!
It is essential to check the seal of the pump top both at the cover seal and also the washer on the top bolt. These both must be airtight and remain so. The top screw can be a problem if the thread on the pump top has been overtightened and stripped.
Make sure the pump chamber under the filter is cleaned out while you have everything apart. If you want to be as safe as possible, once you've identified exactly which model you need parts for, a repair kit may be the most financially advantageous and then you will have everything you need to hand.
Once sorted, these pumps should give reliable service for thousands of miles, the only occasional maintenance being to check that the top bolt remains secure as they have a tendency to slacken off then people give these pumps a bad name when they don't work as they should.
1934 12 Tourer, 1934 14 SS, 1935 12SS, 1936 12S,1937 10, 1938 20SS,1938 14S, 1939 16S, 1946 14S, 1946 16SS, 1947 12S
Re: Petrol Pump repair/replace - 1937 12 P2
Thank you both, a wealth of info.
I don't get to see the car for 2 wks, but will report back then.
I don't get to see the car for 2 wks, but will report back then.