I've not long bought my 1939 P2 14 and just joined the RSR so I'm on a steep learning curve. Please forgive loads of questions! My car has the Luvax chassis lubrication system disconnected and grease nipples fitted. A couple are missing, does anyone know what thread they are please?
Also I need a full exhaust system, it currently had a non-standard lash-up that is very noisy. Any recommendations for a supplier?
Thanks.
P2 14 questions
Re: P2 14 questions
3/8" BSF from memory. I think your intention is to keep using the nipples but :
If you buy new metering units (IB) which are 1/8" BSP, they recut to the right thread with only a decent die required. Be sure, if you buy them from Lubetec, that you buy all the ones you need at once because they charge a fairly extortionate price for postage irrespective of quantity then take days to actually send them,so you only want to do it once.
Only straight ones are available.
Reinstating the oil system is the right and only way to go. The joints are designed for continuous oil lubrication and definitely not grease. Use either 90 or 140 oil. This applies particularly to the ball joints.
I needed a silencer for my 1939 model/38 registered 14. It had a s/s tailpipe and good front pipe. I asked the price of a new silencer and it was quite shocking so I had sitting a new front silencer in stainless for a 1.5 Riley RMA at just under half the price. With the stubs cut off and new ones welded on, it fitted well, only lacking the taper of the original. However, if you haven't welded or don't know someone handy who does, that may be a bullet that has to be bitten, especially if the front pipe is poor.
Component generic parts are all available but it depends on what you can do yourself or can get done. Should you live near a bespoke exhaust maker, I would think it worth asking them for a quote. The two 'bits' to watch are that the bend at the front pipe doesn't sit too low and also that whoever puts it on has a good look at how the mount at the front of the rear wheel arch works. They may need to have some Balata belting handy if the original has worn and it needs to be adjusted carefully to avoid rattles here.
If you buy new metering units (IB) which are 1/8" BSP, they recut to the right thread with only a decent die required. Be sure, if you buy them from Lubetec, that you buy all the ones you need at once because they charge a fairly extortionate price for postage irrespective of quantity then take days to actually send them,so you only want to do it once.
Only straight ones are available.
Reinstating the oil system is the right and only way to go. The joints are designed for continuous oil lubrication and definitely not grease. Use either 90 or 140 oil. This applies particularly to the ball joints.
I needed a silencer for my 1939 model/38 registered 14. It had a s/s tailpipe and good front pipe. I asked the price of a new silencer and it was quite shocking so I had sitting a new front silencer in stainless for a 1.5 Riley RMA at just under half the price. With the stubs cut off and new ones welded on, it fitted well, only lacking the taper of the original. However, if you haven't welded or don't know someone handy who does, that may be a bullet that has to be bitten, especially if the front pipe is poor.
Component generic parts are all available but it depends on what you can do yourself or can get done. Should you live near a bespoke exhaust maker, I would think it worth asking them for a quote. The two 'bits' to watch are that the bend at the front pipe doesn't sit too low and also that whoever puts it on has a good look at how the mount at the front of the rear wheel arch works. They may need to have some Balata belting handy if the original has worn and it needs to be adjusted carefully to avoid rattles here.
1934 12 Tourer, 1934 14 SS, 1935 12SS, 1936 12S,1937 10, 1938 20SS,1938 14S, 1939 16S, 1946 14S, 1946 16SS, 1947 12S
Re: P2 14 questions
Thanks for the reply. Yes, I have considered reinstating the Luvax system, most of it seems to still be there, I wonder why it was disconnected? Leaks presumably. For now I'll keep it as it is as there is enough to do already. A new loom for example, are they available anywhere?
If nobody makes an exhaust to fit there is a good place near to me who can fabricate from scratch. The downpipe is ok for about 12'' so something to work off. The information in the workshop manual is helpful with all the original dimensions and a diagram.
If nobody makes an exhaust to fit there is a good place near to me who can fabricate from scratch. The downpipe is ok for about 12'' so something to work off. The information in the workshop manual is helpful with all the original dimensions and a diagram.
Re: P2 14 questions
The reason was often that mechanics didn't know how to fix it, did not understand it and had difficulties in obtaining spare parts. All that can be resolved today. read more here:
https://lulis.org/2011/10/29/26-453-%d7 ... %95%d7%9f/
Since then David Mosley passed away, RIP. but you can get all the necessary components from Fines . See here:
https://lulis.org/2017/12/17/%d7%99%d7% ... %a8%d7%9b/
https://lulis.org/2011/10/29/26-453-%d7 ... %95%d7%9f/
Since then David Mosley passed away, RIP. but you can get all the necessary components from Fines . See here:
https://lulis.org/2017/12/17/%d7%99%d7% ... %a8%d7%9b/
Re: P2 14 questions
Fiennes do them for Bentleys & prices are accordingly eyewatering!
These fittings are used on machine tools and are much less expensive, but need to have threads modified as suggested.
I don't know how significant the "sizes" are...Rover, being engineers no doubt wanted it absolutely correctly metered. Frankly these days, as long as lots of oil gets to where it is needed....who worries is the garage floor/car park gets a bit oily! What I have never understood is the felt in the unit...surely tat must restrict the oilso much that the meter valve is almost irrelevant???
These fittings are used on machine tools and are much less expensive, but need to have threads modified as suggested.
I don't know how significant the "sizes" are...Rover, being engineers no doubt wanted it absolutely correctly metered. Frankly these days, as long as lots of oil gets to where it is needed....who worries is the garage floor/car park gets a bit oily! What I have never understood is the felt in the unit...surely tat must restrict the oilso much that the meter valve is almost irrelevant???
Re: P2 14 questions
I wondered if you had got fixed up with nipples to replace the missing ones? I have been finishing off a couple of Luvax reinstatements and realise I have quite a few nipples knocking around, straight and angled. If you know what types you could do with, should you want to, let me know and I'll look out what I have, put them in the parts washer, put some oil through them and they would be yours for the postage.
On the subject of looms, new ones look very nice but I have found the wire in them now is very brittle. It only bends a couple of times then breaks. Probably something to do with the price of copper. I've made several looms up using cotton harness tape, not the PVC stuff. That way, you can add extra cables if needed but also make the ends on various things a bit longer to make working on them and with them a bit easier. Aesthetically the new looms can be very nice but it does come at a cost.
On the subject of looms, new ones look very nice but I have found the wire in them now is very brittle. It only bends a couple of times then breaks. Probably something to do with the price of copper. I've made several looms up using cotton harness tape, not the PVC stuff. That way, you can add extra cables if needed but also make the ends on various things a bit longer to make working on them and with them a bit easier. Aesthetically the new looms can be very nice but it does come at a cost.
1934 12 Tourer, 1934 14 SS, 1935 12SS, 1936 12S,1937 10, 1938 20SS,1938 14S, 1939 16S, 1946 14S, 1946 16SS, 1947 12S
Re: P2 14 questions
Thanks for the offer. I've been laid up with a bad shoulder but getting better now so will hopefully be back in harness this week. I'm still not sure of the thread, other than they're 28tpi (I think). But they go into where the Luvax fittings were so your spare ones should fit. Only one missing but a few spares wouldn't go amiss, straight and angled would be great, so if you would be so kind as to send a few of each I'll transfer the cost to your account or send you a cheque if you prefer. If you let me know when you're ready I'll pm you my address and send you the money. Thanks again.
Interesting about the modern looms being somewhat fragile, worth knowing. I've patched things up temporarily, everything works except the passing light and I've bought a fire extinguisher just in case. I'll also fit a battery cut out switch so I can leave it disconnected in the garage.
Next job is a thermostat and clean the sump out, then a new exhaust.
Interesting about the modern looms being somewhat fragile, worth knowing. I've patched things up temporarily, everything works except the passing light and I've bought a fire extinguisher just in case. I'll also fit a battery cut out switch so I can leave it disconnected in the garage.
Next job is a thermostat and clean the sump out, then a new exhaust.
Re: P2 14 questions
That's fine, I looked out a selection today and they should fit. If you send me a message on here (there's a facility to do it if you have a look), let me know your address and I'll send you some and you can try them first !
A modern thermostat on these cars needs a collar added 28mm diameter, 30mm long, to make the bypass work correctly. Oil the threads on the three studs well and remove the nuts carefully to avoid breaking the studs. Now, either the thermostat cover will come off - or not. The top has a shoulder which sits into the top of the housing and it can all corrode together.
The last resort is to hacksaw it into pieces and fit a new one.
I have seen various attempts as to where to place a master switch but I think under the rear seat, passenger side, is probably the best. It is just about reachable from the front but much more so than something under the bonnet. The only thing to watch is to buy a switch with a long enough shank to allow it to switch on and off. I have one with a switch where the knob shank goes in as the switch turns on. By the time the switch is on, the knob is tight up against the carpet and can't be left screwed on. That's why the previous owner left an adjustable spanner beside it, I found out.
A modern thermostat on these cars needs a collar added 28mm diameter, 30mm long, to make the bypass work correctly. Oil the threads on the three studs well and remove the nuts carefully to avoid breaking the studs. Now, either the thermostat cover will come off - or not. The top has a shoulder which sits into the top of the housing and it can all corrode together.
The last resort is to hacksaw it into pieces and fit a new one.
I have seen various attempts as to where to place a master switch but I think under the rear seat, passenger side, is probably the best. It is just about reachable from the front but much more so than something under the bonnet. The only thing to watch is to buy a switch with a long enough shank to allow it to switch on and off. I have one with a switch where the knob shank goes in as the switch turns on. By the time the switch is on, the knob is tight up against the carpet and can't be left screwed on. That's why the previous owner left an adjustable spanner beside it, I found out.
1934 12 Tourer, 1934 14 SS, 1935 12SS, 1936 12S,1937 10, 1938 20SS,1938 14S, 1939 16S, 1946 14S, 1946 16SS, 1947 12S
Re: P2 14 questions
Thanks. I've ordered the bits from Meteor Spares, I'll see what arrives. I was thinking or the rear passenger side beneath the seat front for a switch.