I am after some guidance on fitting a replacement wind up Jaeger clock into my dashboard.
When I acquired my 1937 Rover 12 the clock was not working, so I had been in the look out for a working repalcement; which I have now acquired. My current non-working clock does not have the winding/adjustment mechanism attached, so will come out fairly easily.
However, my replacement working clock has the mechanism attached. So I am wondering if this needs to be removed, and if so how, and whether it can be fitted into the dash with it still attached? Having never fitted one I am open to advice and guidnce on how to go about it.
I posted the same query on the Rover P3 and Running Board Facebook page and got a number of some what conflicting responses (i.e. the mechanism unscrews...if so how; the mechanism can be removed my pushing in a pin....if so where; and it will fit with the mechanism attached).
Replacement Jaeger Clock Fitment
Replacement Jaeger Clock Fitment
1937 Rover 12 Sports Saloon
Re: Replacement Jaeger Clock Fitment
Take nothing apart. The clock should not require any dismantling. For a 1937 12 (or 14), the Rover part no for the clock is 05350 and for a 10 of the same year it is 05349.Th 05349 has a much longer winder rod projecting from 6 o clock whereas the winder I think you need should project from the casing between the 6 and 7 numerals, closer to the 7 than the 6 and is about 4 inches long (roughly)
Remove the bulkhead cover under the bonnet, remove the two nuts (may be hexagonal if not original or serrated round brass if original) that hold the clock in place, two studs projecting from the rear of the clock case with a U shaped bracket going across the clock. There will likely be a bulbholder for the instrument illumination held by one of these nuts too. With the bracket removed, the clock should now tilt forward in the instrument panel and it may pull straight out if the edge around 1 and 2 is tilted out first, then out. The hole in the underdash panel for the winder should be big enough for the knob to pass through. Refitting is the same in reverse.
There are quite a number of variations in these clocks depending on the year and original fitment. In essence they share a common ancestry with the Smiths clocks of the same period and size. The detail differences are in the numerals and lettering (Arabic/Roman/British Jaeger/Jaeger/top/bottom) but also there can be two designs of case. Around 37/38, they brought out a slimmer domed case which was a lot easier to fit in some cars but again that orientation of the winder is critical.
The good news is that they are very very reliable, much more so than the later electric clocks, and with a little care and maintenance they appear to give years of trouble free service. The visible winder rod is held onto the clock mechanism by a miniature screw which goes through both the outer visible rod and through the inner shaft of the clock. It may be covered by a piece of fabric tubing. The head is very small and will require a very small watchmakers screwdriver to remove it without damaging the head. The inner shaft is sprung so once the outer rod is removed, the small protruding shaft needs to be pushed up into the case for the case to come off, having removed the rear casing screws.
It is worth checking that the blue transparent strip for the clock illumination is in place before replacing the clock. To a degree, all these operations can be somewhat dependant on who has been there before and whether they have done something well, or less well. With a complete replacement unit you should have potential success on your side but do bear in mind that writing these notes with no photos does come with the health warning that anything that has been changed in the intervening 89 years by previous owners can make these jobs either much easier or more difficult depending on who has done what.
Remove the bulkhead cover under the bonnet, remove the two nuts (may be hexagonal if not original or serrated round brass if original) that hold the clock in place, two studs projecting from the rear of the clock case with a U shaped bracket going across the clock. There will likely be a bulbholder for the instrument illumination held by one of these nuts too. With the bracket removed, the clock should now tilt forward in the instrument panel and it may pull straight out if the edge around 1 and 2 is tilted out first, then out. The hole in the underdash panel for the winder should be big enough for the knob to pass through. Refitting is the same in reverse.
There are quite a number of variations in these clocks depending on the year and original fitment. In essence they share a common ancestry with the Smiths clocks of the same period and size. The detail differences are in the numerals and lettering (Arabic/Roman/British Jaeger/Jaeger/top/bottom) but also there can be two designs of case. Around 37/38, they brought out a slimmer domed case which was a lot easier to fit in some cars but again that orientation of the winder is critical.
The good news is that they are very very reliable, much more so than the later electric clocks, and with a little care and maintenance they appear to give years of trouble free service. The visible winder rod is held onto the clock mechanism by a miniature screw which goes through both the outer visible rod and through the inner shaft of the clock. It may be covered by a piece of fabric tubing. The head is very small and will require a very small watchmakers screwdriver to remove it without damaging the head. The inner shaft is sprung so once the outer rod is removed, the small protruding shaft needs to be pushed up into the case for the case to come off, having removed the rear casing screws.
It is worth checking that the blue transparent strip for the clock illumination is in place before replacing the clock. To a degree, all these operations can be somewhat dependant on who has been there before and whether they have done something well, or less well. With a complete replacement unit you should have potential success on your side but do bear in mind that writing these notes with no photos does come with the health warning that anything that has been changed in the intervening 89 years by previous owners can make these jobs either much easier or more difficult depending on who has done what.
Re: Replacement Jaeger Clock Fitment
Many thanks for the concise details on how to remove and fit the clock.
The winding mechnism on the replacement I obtained does indeed protrude from 6 or 7 o'clock (see attached picture), so looks to the right part and also has the blue transparent strip.
I think all my instruments are original as the bezels are not chrome but dulled brass (see other picture), presumably because the chrome has worn off. The replacement clock has a chrome bezel, so when I get the old clock out I may look to chenge the bezels over, although they seem to be more that just the bezel but the casing.
The winding mechnism on the replacement I obtained does indeed protrude from 6 or 7 o'clock (see attached picture), so looks to the right part and also has the blue transparent strip.
I think all my instruments are original as the bezels are not chrome but dulled brass (see other picture), presumably because the chrome has worn off. The replacement clock has a chrome bezel, so when I get the old clock out I may look to chenge the bezels over, although they seem to be more that just the bezel but the casing.
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1937 Rover 12 Sports Saloon
Re: Replacement Jaeger Clock Fitment
Good, I was going to change my original reply as I remembered that when describing how the shaft comes off, that only applies to the later designs. The earlier models have the winder going straight up into the back of the casing which is held on by small countersunk screws. Chrome bezels were fitted certainly up to at least 1935 but from about (late?) 1936 onwards, a matt - or maybe satin?- black finish was applied. The 36 parts catalogue appears to show chrome bezels but the 37 one shows black bezels. The earlier clocks (Parallel sided case) don't have a separate bezel, it's a metal cover about 2 inches or so long with the glass held in the one end and the countersunk small screws I've mentioned above at the other.
I have just seen your dashboard picture ! Were I a gambling person, which I'm not, I would bet on your existing clock having a quartz mechanism which explains why there's no winding handle because the clock work will be long gone. The characteristic tick tick tick tick of the mechanical clock is much nicer than the "scrunch scrunch" of quartz movements, though you can get quieter ones now. The dual gauge incorporating the water temperature can be handy but they didn't come until later as standard although they were an extra cost option so it would be worth looking to see if yours exactly matches the petrol gauge and speedometer. Of the cars I have, your dashboard is most similar to my 1938 14 . If I have managed to attach a picture, it is only as an illustration because the car is one of the "hacks" and not an example of how anything should be.
I have just seen your dashboard picture ! Were I a gambling person, which I'm not, I would bet on your existing clock having a quartz mechanism which explains why there's no winding handle because the clock work will be long gone. The characteristic tick tick tick tick of the mechanical clock is much nicer than the "scrunch scrunch" of quartz movements, though you can get quieter ones now. The dual gauge incorporating the water temperature can be handy but they didn't come until later as standard although they were an extra cost option so it would be worth looking to see if yours exactly matches the petrol gauge and speedometer. Of the cars I have, your dashboard is most similar to my 1938 14 . If I have managed to attach a picture, it is only as an illustration because the car is one of the "hacks" and not an example of how anything should be.
- 38 14 dashboard.jpg (68.27 KiB) Viewed 603 times
Re: Replacement Jaeger Clock Fitment
Many thanks again. So it looks like the replacement clock I have is an earlier 35/36 type clock as it does not have a removable bezel but the 2" sort of depth casing incorporating the bezel with the countersunk screws. It is good to know that the bezels should be black, as I could therefore paint all my bezels black, including the chrome on the new replacement clock.
The dual temp/water gauge certainly matches all the other gauges, so I imagine it is potentially original fitment....but who knows after 89 years!
The dual temp/water gauge certainly matches all the other gauges, so I imagine it is potentially original fitment....but who knows after 89 years!
1937 Rover 12 Sports Saloon