P2 overheating

[wedugs]

Having rebuilt the bottom of the body I have recently put my P2 back on the road with a new MoT but it overheats. I have flushed the radiator with Holts flushing treatment and put a new thermostat in, having tested it first. The car drives with no problem, if anything a bit cool according to its temperature gauge. However, it boils after a couple of minutes ticking over following a run. It did not boil when I had it on fast idle for half an hour when I was using the flushing treatment. It had the new thermostat at that time. Any ideas?

[Phil - Nottingham]

Classic symptom of blocked rad core which can only be rectified by removing the header tank and rodding through which often reveals thin/holed tubes so a recore is necessary.

IMHO flushing compounds rarely work well if at all once the stuff has hardened particularly if rad weld etc has been used in the past and the rad stood a long time so dried out.

I put up with intermitment overheating for some time on my 16 even cruinsing above 55mph as well as idling for more than 5 mins before having the rad rebuilt and now no problems at all. (except fuel vap sometimes which I am going to rectify by fitting an electric pump)

Thw water pump impellors could also be corroded so less efficient

The 100mm engine cylinder head does have design flaw which causes localised boiling at the rear - this can be cured by reducing the head waterway holes at the front and widening slightly at the rear.

[chris dancey]

I suffered with fuel vapour lock on my '10' which I cured with an electric pump ( from an MGB ).....dos'ent make the '10' go any faster !!!! ...and I made a brass blanking plate which fits the original mechanical pump, so that the fuel still flows through the original pump ( keeping the original look ) with any pumping action.

[Phil - Nottingham]

I am thonking of adding a puller electric pump after the existing mechanical pump in "series" to supplemnt it - has anyone tried this?

Or would it work better in paralelle by teeing into inlet and outlet lines

[47p2]

The electric SU pump fitted to my P2 is under the back seat and the car has never sufferes from vapour lock

[Phil - Nottingham]

I agree a pusher pump is more efficient but I have already go a good puller! P3's had one on the bulkhead as did S1 and S2 LR's

[daveandfru]

Has anyone carried out repairs to water pump on a 1932 10 special. I think mine must have sheared
and I would like to know :-
What parts I need ,who would have them and what sort of a job it would be ??
Thanks for your help
regards Dave

[matrax2]

Hi,
I read in previous post: has some one experiience with an electric waterpump in series with the original pump?
I have in my Kitcher (http://rover-kitcher.webklik.nl) a Morris Marina radiator, which has 1/3 of the content of the original rad.
Having overheating problems too, especially when I switched the engine of (heatsoak), I first mounted a Kenlowe fan, which helped, but not sufficient.
Then I mounted a Craig Davis pump (with a manual swich) in series and this proved to do the trick!
On a tour to Cambridge this summer, on a 35 C day, I had no problem at all.

Regards, Hans