Engine Fault
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- Posts: 6
- Joined: Sun May 11, 2014 4:04 pm
Engine Fault
I cannot get my 1935 Rover P1 to start I am getting a good spark and fuel, timing is spot on, it will start for a few seconds and cut out what can be wrong with it any help
Re: Engine Fault
Have you tried substituting the condenser (not an easy task I know. but it may be the source of the problem). The other suspects could be any new ignition components - new rotor arms can sometimes fail.
Hope this helps
Mike
Hope this helps
Mike
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Re: Engine Fault
Thanks Mike but I have renewed all ignition parts and condenser
Richard
Richard
- paul williams
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- Location: Telford,Shropshire
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Re: Engine Fault
Hi,
a few things to check, you probably have already:
Is the air intake clear - try starting without air filter
Is the exhaust blocked?
Is it good petrol?
Does it run if you squirt one of those easystart aerosols in the carb?
Is the dynamo seized?
Do you know the history of the engine, has it been running OK recently? Any more info would help
a few things to check, you probably have already:
Is the air intake clear - try starting without air filter
Is the exhaust blocked?
Is it good petrol?
Does it run if you squirt one of those easystart aerosols in the carb?
Is the dynamo seized?
Do you know the history of the engine, has it been running OK recently? Any more info would help
Paul Williams
1929 2litre Saloon
1934 P1 10HP
1951 Rover Cyclops
1974 P6 3500
1998 LR Discovery I
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- Joined: Sun May 11, 2014 4:04 pm
Re: Engine Fault
The car was running perfect until a couple of months ago then it would not start
Tried it with and with out the filter on
Petrol good
Dynamo not seized
I do not think the exhaust is blocked
I will try easy start
Any one else got any idea it is the 6 cylinder engine
Tried it with and with out the filter on
Petrol good
Dynamo not seized
I do not think the exhaust is blocked
I will try easy start
Any one else got any idea it is the 6 cylinder engine
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- Location: Brighton & Paphos, Cyprus
Re: Engine Fault
I would suggest that you check the following.
1) Is there a spark on each plug. Remove each plug in turn, place back on the lead and hold near the block . Get someone to turn the engine over by the starter, if no spark on any plug then the coil is suspect. If one plug only does not spark, then suspect the plug leads, terminal cap of maybe the leads/cap/terminal are arching/shorting to the cylinder head. If using the brass solder on type terminals, cover them with shrink wrap to prevent shorting to the block..or each other plug.
2) Suspect the distributor cap, points, condenser as afore mentioned, use only the red rotor arms available from the distributor doctor, the rest are usually made in China and can fail.
3 ) Do you have adequate fuel..if not suspect the fuel pump.
4) Is the carburettor jet blocked, and does the piston slide freely ?
Have you altered the timing recently ? The timing marks on the flywheel can be out of synch. Often in the past ( due to wear or damage on the starting ring ) the flywheel would be turned round to a fresh segment of the ring and the timing marks would no longer apply.
If all these have been checked, let me know..I still suspect the coil may be the first item to look at ( Item 1 )
1) Is there a spark on each plug. Remove each plug in turn, place back on the lead and hold near the block . Get someone to turn the engine over by the starter, if no spark on any plug then the coil is suspect. If one plug only does not spark, then suspect the plug leads, terminal cap of maybe the leads/cap/terminal are arching/shorting to the cylinder head. If using the brass solder on type terminals, cover them with shrink wrap to prevent shorting to the block..or each other plug.
2) Suspect the distributor cap, points, condenser as afore mentioned, use only the red rotor arms available from the distributor doctor, the rest are usually made in China and can fail.
3 ) Do you have adequate fuel..if not suspect the fuel pump.
4) Is the carburettor jet blocked, and does the piston slide freely ?
Have you altered the timing recently ? The timing marks on the flywheel can be out of synch. Often in the past ( due to wear or damage on the starting ring ) the flywheel would be turned round to a fresh segment of the ring and the timing marks would no longer apply.
If all these have been checked, let me know..I still suspect the coil may be the first item to look at ( Item 1 )
1934 ( 1935 model ) P1 '10' Saloon RD 6160
1935 P1 '10' Saloon ( originally JB 6729 ) now VSJ 156
1946 P2 '14' Sports Saloon KPG 855
1933 MG J2 Cycle Wing Model APB 560
1933 MG J2 Competition Model ALX 124
1935 P1 '10' Saloon ( originally JB 6729 ) now VSJ 156
1946 P2 '14' Sports Saloon KPG 855
1933 MG J2 Cycle Wing Model APB 560
1933 MG J2 Competition Model ALX 124
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- Joined: Sun May 11, 2014 4:04 pm
Re: Engine Fault
Thanks Chris
Were is the best place to get genuine Rover parts i.e. red rotor arm and distributor cap I suspect the ones I have a from China
I personal think its a fuel problem
Were is the best place to get genuine Rover parts i.e. red rotor arm and distributor cap I suspect the ones I have a from China
I personal think its a fuel problem
Re: Engine Fault
HI,
I HAVE HAD A SIMILAR THING HAPPEN,THE CORKS ON THE RESERVE TAP ARE A REGULAR SOURCE OF AIR INGRES ALLOWING FUEL STARVATION,
A PLASTIC MILK BOTTLE, GOOD PETROL AND A PIECE OF RUBBER HOSE COUPLED TO THE PUMP SUCTION WILL ILLIMINATE A FAULTY FUEL LINE.
HOPE THIS HELPS.
JEFF.
I HAVE HAD A SIMILAR THING HAPPEN,THE CORKS ON THE RESERVE TAP ARE A REGULAR SOURCE OF AIR INGRES ALLOWING FUEL STARVATION,
A PLASTIC MILK BOTTLE, GOOD PETROL AND A PIECE OF RUBBER HOSE COUPLED TO THE PUMP SUCTION WILL ILLIMINATE A FAULTY FUEL LINE.
HOPE THIS HELPS.
JEFF.
1937-20 SS _ 1938-20 SS _ 1946-16 SS _ 1947-16 saloon
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- Posts: 6
- Joined: Sun May 11, 2014 4:04 pm
Re: Engine Fault
Can any help where can I buy genuine Rover parts I need a condenser, points and a rotor arm